The CLL Way (JOGLE 2009)

Day 19. Sodom to Prestatyn.

2010-08-30T21:31:00.013+01:00

Preamble: Over the last two or three days, at times, I've had difficulty getting my leg over. Even Shiel commented on it. I think it is something of which the Offa's Dyke Association should be made aware. Although most stiles have steps of sufficient height that one's boot reaches over the top board on the stile, the stile is sometimes too narrow to accommodate the length of leg from knee to boot. This results in an unstable crossing of the stile when one's boot hits one of the upright supports. The stone stiles on the last day, although of interest in their own way, were particularly plagued with this problem. This is not a trivial matter. Our landlady a few days ago told of one group that had to abort their walk because one of their party broke an arm whilst attempting to cross a stile.

The Walk: We had an early start, 8:40am, in clear but cool weather. I was wearing my polypro for the first time. We started to climb shortly after leaving our B&B (Fron Hall), and within about 10 minutes I decided I also needed my windproof jacket. We had good views back over yesterday's route at this time.

It was a good pull to the top of the hill, Cefn Du, and I was glad we stayed at Sodom and not further down the hill in Bodfari. Climbing out of Bodfari to Cefn Du on a full stomach does not bear thinking about.

Just as we reached the summit the skys darkened, the rain came and the wind intensified. We put on all our wet weather gear. Needles to say, what might have been extensive views were seriously curtailed. The wind rose to almost frightening proportions and in crossing one field, near Rhuallt, we heard an almighty crack and saw a large branch break off an oak tree. Fortunately it was about 30 metres away. By midday the rain eased and the views improved but the wind was still horrendous.

The route into Prestatyn is quite imaginative, and climbs high above the town giving great views out to Snowdonia, and north to Lancashire, but we spent most of our time trying to keep upright in the gusting wind. As Shiel said, 'Now we know why they've sited a wind farm offshore here.' Fortunately the wind was blowing us onto the hillside, and not off it or the walk would have been impossible. On a calm day it must be a really impressive end to the walk. Full marks to the planners.

Having now done the walk I would recommend a south to north crossing to anyone contemplating the walk. Finishing in Sedbury would I think be an anticlimax compared to finishing in Prestatyn.

As we passed our B&B we popped in to report our progress, but continued, fully kitted, to the water's edge in Prestatyn. It was still very windy and it felt like one was in a sandblasting machine. We didn't hang around but took a few photographs and then returned to our B&B (Plas Ifan Chapel. Plas Ifan also have camping facilities and will even provide a breakfast if requested. We met two young guys there who had had great difficulty finding a campsite in Prestatyn until a publican had referred them to Plas Ifan Chapel.

This one is for Graham at RDA. It might help place where we are.

Monday. Walk over. Where are we? Here is a clue.

Shiel st the end of her first long distance walk. Note the smile!

Sculpture on the beach at Prestatyn.

Day 18. Esgairlygain to Sodom.

2010-08-29T08:24:00.005+01:00

Preamble: The pub in Llangynhafal was taken over with a Cancer Charity event so we were taken to the next pub down the road for an evening meal. Not a bad meal, but not nearly as good a value as the pub at Llandegla. On returning us to the b&b the owner was going to feed his horses so I asked if I could go along too. A pleasant way to round off the evening.

Walk: We left Esgairlygain at 8:40 in fine sunny weather. The climb back onto the ridge was not too steep, and we were on the tops again in an hour. We still couldn't find the path down, shown in green on the OS map, at the top end of the route near the finger post. The way down seems to use the much fainter dotted path on the map. Not far rom the top though the path, when found, is clearly marked.

It remained clear but windy, and we had excellent views from the ridge. There were quite a few people out walking, mainly sourced from the two car parks we passed along the way. We did however meet two Offa's Dyke walkers, Chris and Graham, walking the path in aid of NSPCC in only 10 days. I thought that I was a heavy packer but Chris makes me look like a light packer, he was carrying 60 lbs.

There were many ups and downs to hill forts and it was a great walking day, if a little cool. We had one hard shower on our descent into Bodfari where we had a snack outside the shop. We had been told, incorrectly, that the pub wasn't open. There then followed a short, but steep climb to Fron Haul our b&b.

We went down to the pub for an evening meal and were offered a lift back, but we decided to walk. Without our packs it was a pleasant walk back. I think even Shiel may have enjoyed our penultimte day.

Chris & Graham

The frame has snapped on my Osprey rucksack!

Day 17. Llandegla to Esgairlygain (Llangynhafal)

2010-08-27T22:09:00.008+01:00

Preamble. Last night we stayed at The Hand b&b in Llandegla. They very kindly ran us to the nearest pub, The Plough, for our evening meal. We each had an excellent meal at a remarkably cheap price. Service was good and the pub is well worth a visit if you are staying in Llandegla. We walked back from the pub to the b&b in about 15 minutes.

The breakfast at The Hand this morning had to be the most imaginative of the trip and we've had some good breakfasts. Fresh fruit followed by salmon and scambled egg and finishing with pain au chocolate, toast, coffee and honey.

The Walk. Today we were casting shadows fom our first steps. A sunny day all day. We crossed mainly flat farmland to start with before gradually climbing up towards Moel y Plas. We then skirted around Moel Llanfair with great views to the west. We then skirted Moel Gyw before coming down to the busy A494.

A climb to Moel Eithinen was followed by a climb to Foel Fenlli, but this hill fort was skirted rather than fully ascended, but great views were had along the way. We then descended to a very busy carpark at Bwlch Penbarra. Remember today is bankholiday Friday. We then had a 2 .8km climb to the summit of Moel Famau, the highest peak in the Clwydan range. The climb was pretty gradual but for the last few metres (horizontal). At the top, there were great views from the Jubilee Tower in all directions. We could see Snowden, Liverpool and Jodrell Bank amongst many other well known landmarks. It turned a little cool on top so we donned our windproof clothing to walk north along the ridge before our descent to Esgairlygain. Finding the path down from the ridge was not a trivial task but we reached Esgairlygain by 5 pm having left Llandegla around 9am.

Swing bridge on Llangollen canal.

Were you hoping to cross here?

Eglwyseg crags.

Path repair work by Denbighshire council. Note the wheelbarrow!

Day 16. Froncysyllte to Llandegla.

2010-08-27T07:26:00.003+01:00

Preamble: Last night we stayed at yyyy a b&b right on the path just before Froncysyllte, and the Llangollen canal. We had an excellent meal and a good chat with Pat and Malcolm our hosts. A great place to stay and they will even do your washing. Another good reason to use our 3 day route choice from Llanymynech to Llandegla.

Today's walk: It was the best of days and the worst of days. For the first time we wore our waterproof clothing all day. The rain was only heavy a few times but the drizzle was persistant. We never saw our shadows once.

That having been said I think today was probably the most impessive day's walking we've had so far. For those who have walked the Pennine Way it was a combination of High Cup Nick and the Swaledale walk from Thwaite to Keld. Magnificent scenery even on a wet day. On a sunny day it must be incredible.

The day started with a pleasant walk along the Llangollen canal. We then joined the road to go to the bridge over the Dee from which one can get a very good view of Thomas Telford's aqueduct, built in 1805.

We then had a long but gentle climb to the road from which there were good views of Dinas Bran and the Dee valley. The road walk was about 3 miles, but we only met one car on the walk. We then walked on north, on the scree, beneath the Eglwyseg crags. Probably the most exilharating part of the walk so far.

On the path we met a group of 'Offa's Heroes' who were maintaining the path for the Denbighshire council. They had managed to get a wheel barrow where we had had difficulty just getting ourselves down.

We rejoined the road, in heavier rain to climb onto the moor. We eventually turned off the road to cross the moor to a pine plantation through which we descended to Llangedla, and Hand House our b&b for the night.

Day 15. Quarry Farm to Froncyscyllte.

2010-08-25T21:31:00.002+01:00

Preamble: In the guide book the recommended route is shown from Llanymynech to Chirk Mill at 14 miles, and then from Chirk Mill to Llandegla at 15.5 miles.

As Shiel is new to walking I have tried to limit our walking days to less than 12 miles. We will therefore take 3 days to get from Lanymynech to Llandegla. Shiel also likes visiting castles and with our choice of route we were able to spend 2.5 hours today looking around Chirk Castle.

Today: As we were having a short walking day we didn't order breakfast until 9:00am. As a result it was after 10:00am before we bid goodbye to Beryl and Peter after a very enjoyable chat over breakfast.

The day was overcast but there was no wind or rain and we had a pleasant 3 hour walk to Chirk Castle. We looked around the castle and gardens for over two and a half hours and even had time for tea. I would recommend our route choice to all walkers who are more interested in seeing the UK than getting from Sedbury Cliffs to Prestatyn in record time. Our route also allowed us to visit some great b&b establishments.

We arrived at Chirk Castle on a permissive path and attempted to leave on the same path. However, unbeknown to us there is more than one permissive path at Chirk Castle, and we picked the wrong one! We eventually realised our mistake, but we had walked about an extra km as a result. We arrived at our b&b, Cloud Hill, at 4:30 pm. Two and a half hours later we had an excellent evening meal cooked at the same establishment.

Day 14. Llanymynech to The Quarry, Selattyn.

2010-08-24T22:15:00.004+01:00

We left the b&b at around 9am and headed for the post office where I got a £20 voucher for my 'orange' blog-o-phone. We were delayed slightly, first by Shiel having water leaking from her pack and secondly by me deciding to polish the toes of my boots. I think the technical term for these procrastinations is;- 'a faff.'

It was sunny but very windy when we eventually left Lanymynech around 9:30am, and started our ascent of Llanymynech Hill. There were good views of interesting rocky outcrops before we finally arrived at the golf course. Whilst rain threatened it held off all day and we never needed our waterproof clothing. The first ascent of the day though, over Llanymynech Hill, was marred by the overpowering smell of slurry borne in on the blustery wind. However, by the time we reached Porth-y-Waen the air had cleared significantly. Then we followed a road walk to Nantmawr, and a climb through woods (Jones's Rough) to the top of Moelydd where we had extensive 360 degree views. There seemed to be a lot of rain on the horizon, especially out west, but we escaped it.

We headed down for lunch in Trefonan, where a dead tree has been skilfully carved in the shape of an eagle. The final climb of the day was up though Racecourse Wood where we met up with Bill and Peter who are walking Offa's Dyke in stages over a number of years. We had passed them earlier in the day in the company of their wives, Jill and Susan, who had now travelled on ahead to pick them up near the car park at the old Oswestry Racecourse.

We had a good chat with them, whilst climbing to Racecourse Common, which made the climb so much less tiring than we had feared. We stopped at a plane table near the racecourse ruins, but all the views are now obscured by new tree growth. Then there was an easy walk to our b&b, The Quarry, near Carreg-y-big.

Black eyed sheep. Black ears, nose and feet.

Day 13. Welshpool to Llanymynech.

2010-08-23T22:15:00.003+01:00

Started walking north by the canal to meet up with Offa's Dyke path. We spent the first two hours taking waterproofs on and off in the intermittent rain. The rain then eased and we had a clear run until two minutes before we arrived at the b&b.

The route was mainly flat walking over farm land following a river stop bak, and the eventually Offa's Dyke. A lot of concentration was needed to avoid treading in cow pats or sticking the walking poles in them. We saw three families of swans one pair having seven cygnets.

There were plenty of ripe blackberries along the route and at one point a landowner was giving away apples to passing walkers.

As it was a short day we stopped for lunch at the Golden Lion in Four Crosses to pass the time.

Day 12 Welshpool.

2010-08-23T21:45:00.004+01:00

Beautiful sunny day sightseeing in Welshpool.

We walked to Powis Castle and spent the afternoon looking around the castle and gardens. A really enjoyable visit. If you are walking Offa's Dyke it is well worth taking an extra day to visit the castle and gardens.

In the evening we had a very good meal in the Royal Oak.

Powis Castle.

Swans with young on Montgomery canal

Day 11. Montgomery to Welshpool.

2010-08-22T22:41:00.010+01:00

The day started in sunshine with a walk past the show ground where people were making preparations for the annual Montgomery show. It looked like being a good day.

We quickly joined the Offa's Dyke path and headed north. We had fine weather for two hours, until we were just starting to climb, when the rain started and continued on and off for the rest of the day. We were well soaked, but the rain did ease slightly as we reached the top of Beacon Hill, and we even managed to get one or two photographs, but visibility was limited. However we were able to make out Powis Castle just south of Welshpool.

At Buttington Bridge we turned South to pick up the path beside the Montgomery canal to Welshpool and our b&b. We were then at last able to remove our waterproof clothing. However 24 hours later, as I write this, our boots are not yet dry enough to take polish! Not one of our better days.

Rabbit or badger damage to Offa's Dyke?

Offa's Dyke.

Road sign seen near Montgomery show ground

Amusing sign seen near Welshpool

Offa's Dyke path? (Just before Buttington Bridge)

Day 10. Springhill Farm to Montgomery.

2010-08-21T22:44:00.004+01:00

It rained heavily overnight and was still raining slightly when we descnded into Newcastle on Clun. There the followed a steep climb up Craig Hill in rain, and with limted visibility. A descent followed into a small river followed by a climb up Hergan before a descent again to Churchtown. The rain was still falling, but the greatest torment at this time was the remarkable number of houseflies or something similar following us in clouds. Both Shiel and I had a personal halo of houseflies. Rained continued and tormented us as we climbed upwards again, this time up Edenhope Hill, but again the visibility was limited. It was like looking at the world through a grey filter. Then we descended again, this time to the river Unk before our final climb of the day up to the Kerry Ridgeway.

As we decended to Montgomery the weather improved and it was sunny by about 4:30 when we reached our B&B. We were greeted with a welcome pot of tea and two generous portions of apple and pear cake. Probably the hardest day and the least enjoyable condtions so far.

Day 9. Discoed to Newcastle on Clun.

2010-08-21T12:36:00.003+01:00

We started off on an overcast, but fine morning, leaving Gumma Farm at 8:45am. After a short road walk we were able to pick up a path which led to the Offa's Dyke path, joining it near a Baptist Church. This church, like two churches passed earlier on the route, stated it provided refreshments for walkers and access to toilet facilities.

Then we climbed onto the moor wih great views in all directions, and eventually descended into Knighton arriving about lunchtime. We posted the guide book for the southern section of the walk to my sister, removing 0.25kg from my back. We passed the library, on the way to the Offa's Dyke centre, where you can get access to the Internet. Then followed a pleasant walk by Teme river before a steep climb up Panpunton Hill. Great views and a stiff breeze, which seved to keep us cool on the climb. We passed a cairn raised to the memory of Roy Waters who was one of the campaigners for the Offa's Dyke path.

We had lunch sitting on Offa's Dyke looking down on the viaduct at Knucklas. There was a final descent to Garbett Hall followed by a very steep ascent Llanfair Hill. During this final ascent the rain started and worsened as we approached our b&b at Springhill Farm. Today's walk had some of the best views off Offa's Dyke seen so far.

However the highlight of the day for Shiel was being able to watch Liverpool beat their Turkish opponents 1 : 0 in the Europa cup. (We have a TV in our room at the b&b.)

Day 8. Gladestry to Discoed.

2010-08-19T04:36:00.010+01:00

The day started with a steep climb in clear weather onto the Hergest Ridge. There were panoramic views into England and Wales most of the way to Kington. One anomalous feature was a group of monkey puzzle trees high up on the ridge. We saw sheep today, but no horses running free. We had morning tea in Kington then set off in the wrong direction through town. We soon realised our error and set off on our second climb of the day to the highest golf course in England, on Bradnor hill. Our climb continued and we rejoined Offa's Dyke after 54 miles without it.

There was another descent followed by a climb before our final descent into Discoed, and our deviation to our B&B at Gumma Farm.

As the famer's wife had a dinner engagement the farmer very kindly ran us into Prestigne to get our evening meal, and picked us up afterwards. The retaurant had a strange name, something like The Hat Box but they provided good food and drink. We partiularly liked their tapas starter.

We were very lucky with the weather as we could see rain at times all around us but we never needed to change into our waterproof clothing. A good walking day!

Photos

Horse on the common.

Monkey puzzles on Hergest Ridge.

Flowers for Martin to identify.

Day 7. Hay on Wye to Gladestry

2010-08-18T10:37:00.002+01:00

I was looking forward to today's walk along the edge of the Wye, having seen the magnificent view from the bridge, but I was to be disappointed. The walk was all through trees with scarcely a sighting of the river. It was overcast and very calm and we were tormented with flies, especially as we moved onto farmland away from the river.

It began to rain just before we started the climb from the river, but had stopped by the time Shiel had managed to get her waterproof overtrousers on. The weather got better from then on and for most of the rest of the day we were in bright sunshine. The walk continued through woodland and then along roads with high hedges, reminiscent of my walk in Devon last year.

The view started to improve about 2 miles south of Newchurch and was excellent over Disgwylfa Hill. Great views in all directions.

The hill was heavily stocked with sheep and there was little grass left, but plenty of sheep faeces. It was difficult to see how a sheep could eat grass without eating its own or a companion's excrement. The situation was pretty similar on the common below Hay Bluff, in some areas, the aroma of sheep urine was almost suffocating. There were also a few horses and ponies on the common.

As we arrived early in Gladestry we popped over to visit the church. A beautiful and peaceful building with some features dating back to the13th century.

We are staying in the Royal Oak which means we only have to walk downstairs to get our evening meal.

Day 6 Hay on Wye

2010-08-17T08:36:00.002+01:00

Today was a rest day to look around the shops in Hay on Wye. First though there were chores to do. We went to the laundrette to do our laundry and while we were waiting we went to the information centre where I downloaded the rest of the Offa's Dyke accommodation guide from the internet. We then walked around the shops. Hay is a bit too busy for me during the day but in the evening and early morning it is very pleasant. Our b&b is also a bookshop so there is no shortage of reading material. Tomorrow we are heading for Gladestry.

More Photos

2010-08-16T10:18:00.010+01:00

View from b&b at Llangattock--

If this were the Cambrian Way we would be walking over that hill!

Drystone wall on Hatterrall Ridge

Shiel on Hay Bluf

Peter on Hay Bluf

Day 5 Llanthony to Hay on Wye

2010-08-16T10:13:00.004+01:00

We left the Half Moon at 9:15am, and made our way back up onto the Hatterrall ridge. There was low cloud, so it was nice and cool, and we didn't overheat on the climb. We stopped at regular intervals to take in the marvellous atmospheric view back down to the priory, the view gradually improving as we ascended. We reached the ridge in low cloud, and visibility was limited so we used the gps to sort out which path to take when a choice of two became available.

We had a great walk along the ridge and the weather gradually improved as the day wore on. There were quite a few day walkers out again. We left the Offa's Dyke path to take in Hay Bluff and the views were really worth the extra effort. We met up again with the South African walker, Peter, who we had chatted to over dinner at the Half Moon the previous evening. He just arrived as we were leaving.

There were lots of people climbing Hay Bluff from the car park and the paths are pretty badly eroded. There were even a few people making multiple ascents and then paragliding down.

We didn't pay enough attention when we joined the road, and missed our turn off but we were able to regain it by walking around the edge of Tack Wood. Then followed a pleasant, at times steep, descent into Hay on Wye through woodland and fields. On the way to our B&B, 'Rest for the Tired', we passed a laundrette which we will visit tomorrow as we are taking the day off to see the sights.

We popped down to the Wye in the evening and the view from the bridge was pure enchantment. A fast flowing river, with swans and cygnets on a small island in the middle and two men flyfishing in the distance. A perfect image of rural England but for the fact that we are in Wales!

Day 4. Llangattock to Llanthony

2010-08-15T11:11:00.006+01:00

A very enjoyable day's walk starting and finishing in farm land. However, the central section was a magnificent walk along the Hatterrall Ridge. Plenty of heather and views for miles in all directions. Even Tony Drake would have liked today's section! Worthy of the Cambrian Way.

The weather remained fine until just before the descent into Llanthony. The descent
was very muddy and heavily eroded. More than 30 people passed us doing a circular walk which included the Abbey.

Shiel keeps asking me if we are enjoying ourselves yet?

Day 3. Monmouth to Llangattock.

2010-08-15T11:11:00.005+01:00

The handicapper struck this moning! Mass was transferred from Shiel's pack to mine. It's getting to feel like I'm carrying a camping pack. However, as a result our progress improved significantly and we reached Llangattock by 4 pm. Had we not booked in at the priory I think we could have reached Pandy.

The day was mainly sunny or overcast, ideal walkig weather and our path was through typically English and Welsh farmland. A very pleasant day with extensive views to the hills. A nice change from the forest walking of the previous days.

We didn't stop at White Castle, which I now regret, as it seemed a large castle with mostly intact outer walls. However, it is not clearly visible from the path, especially on the eastern side.

There was a short sharp shower just after we left White Castle but we were fortunate to be able to shelter under a big oak tree, one of the few large trees providing cover in the area.

We arrived a little early for our b&b at Llangattock so we popped into the old church, St. Cadoc's. A beautiful old building where murals have recently been discovered under layers of plaster on the old walls. One painting of St. George, may possibly date from the 13th centuary.

There is a short but very steep climb, just before the Priory B&B in Llangattock, which the owner wisely forgot to mention when giving me loacation advice over the phone. It does however result in a marvellous view over the local farmland from your bedroom window.

We ate in the Hunter's Moon, a 13th centuary pub, only about 100m from our B&B. Although not shown on our Offa's Dyke accommodation list, the Hunter's Moon does provide accommodation.

Day 2. Brockweir to Monmouth.

2010-08-12T21:36:00.008+01:00

As our B&B was next to the high route to Bigsweir, via St. Briavels Common, we elected to take that route rather than the lower route beside the Wye. We didn't have any problems with finding the route so I assume the track marking has improved since the guidebook was written.

On the way to Lower Redbrook, where we had lunch in the pub below the 67 steps, we met a chap from Glossop. He was walking the Dyke N-S with his son and a friend of his son, collecting funds for the Cystic Fibrosis Society. We saw them on their last day. In a year or two we may see them in a JOGLE attempt. Finding the spare time will probably be their biggest problem. One of the advantages of being retired.

Most of today seems to have been spent walking in tunnels formed by trees and this made the views beyond Monmouth, from Kymin, appear even more impressive. It was the best view of the walk so far. I even could see some of the peaks I climbed on the first half of my Cambrian Way walk.

The Kymin

13th Cent. Gatehouse on Monnow Bridge, Monmouth

Day 1. Tue 10 Aug, Chepstow to Brockweir.

2010-08-11T20:51:00.003+01:00

A good day today! Not a drop of rain and sunny most of the day with little cloud. Hardly any walking in suburbs, mostly farmland and forest. Great view of Tintern Abbey from Devil's Pulpit but be warned it is a very popular spot.

We decided to walk down into Brockweir and came across the HAPPA horse rescue centre. As any friend of Flame (ex. HVRDA) is a friend of ours, we decided to spport the centre by having our lunch there. We then walked along the West bank of the Wye to Tintern Abbey. The outgoing journey seemed a long way in the sunshine but the return by the forested East bank path passed much more quickly.

We had a little difficulty finding our B&B at Castle-a-Buff Farm, but got a very friendly welcome when we eventually found it.

We walked down the hill to the pub in Brockweir for our evening meal. Although it is obviously a 'local pub' everyone seemed happy to welcome strangers into their midst. We had a good meal at the pub and had no trouble maklng our way back up hill to our B&B.

More Photos

2010-08-11T00:01:00.002+01:00

Statue in Cardiff

This years walk

Photos

2010-08-10T23:59:00.003+01:00

Gareth Edwards. (one of the things you missed Tony by not getting to Cardiff!)

Dyke Path. Note the Severn Bridge in the background. Well it is on a clear day

Dyke Path or Berlin Wall?

Cardiff Arms Park

Millenium Centre, Cardiff

Offa's Dyke Walk. Day 0, Tue 10 Aug.

2010-08-10T23:57:00.001+01:00

We left Cardiff at 9:40am and took the bus to Chepstow. The journey was about 60 minutes during which time the weather changed from very slight showers to heavy rain. We had a sandwich in Chepstow and then headed East, across the Bridge near Tescos, to pick up the path south to the Coast along Offa's Dyke. The rain was persistent and it was quite wet underfoot. It may have been the poor weather but I can't say I am impressed with the first part of the walk from Sedbury Cliffs to Chepstow. For a significant part of the way it feels as though one is walking alongside the Berlin wall with fencing on one and sometimes on both sides of the path.

It was also very poor weather for Shiel's first experience of walking a National Trail. Let's hope the weather will pick up as we go along. We returned to Chepstow via the northern most bridge, which we will cross again tomorrow to get back on the Offa's Dyke path. We are having a short day tomorrow only heading for Brockweir, which if we reach in time, we may make a side trip to Tintern Abbey.

Sunday / Monday, 8/9 August.

2010-08-10T23:55:00.000+01:00

Shiel and I left Torquay around 9:40am by National Express arriving in Bristol around midday where we had lunch. We then travelled on, for a couple of hours, to Cardiff. The hotel was only a short walk from the bus station so we checked in, had a short rest and then went out for an evening meal at a Spanish restaurant.

Monday morning we spent looking around Cardiff Castle. Well worth a visit if you happen to be passing through Cardiff. The afternoon was spent last minute shopping and then looking around the buildings to the North East of the city, Law Courts, Museum etc. The weather was not good with showers on and off all day. We also made a special trip to Cardiff Arms Park but
sadly their shop was not open. Sorry Tony! (Shiel however was able to send you a postcard from the Millenium Stadium.) I've also got a couple of photos for the blog which may interest our rugby oriented friends in NZ).

Recent photos

2010-07-31T06:15:00.005+01:00

Looking North along Aberystwyth promenade

Looking South along Aberystwyth Promenade

Domen Milwyn

Duke of Edinburgh Group

Wed 28 July

2010-07-29T10:08:00.004+01:00

Bothy to Devil's Bridge

After going to bed early (around 8:00 pm) I was awakened by a loud banging about 9pm. It was a friendly farmer, Ian, delivering wood to the bothy, so I got up, dressed and gave him a hand to unload it. When we had finished I made a cup of tea and we had an interesting chat.

I left the bothy at about 9am, shortly after the group from Burton. It was ideal walking weather with clear views but no direct sunlight. It was marvellous to be able to see a route miles ahead rather than a few metres ahead like it had been on the walk up to Garn Gron. Being able to choose the terrain over which one is walking can make the going much easier.

The weather held all the way to Domen Milwyn, but it was a bit windy by the cairn. The weather closed in on the way down to Cwmystwyth, and it got much worse heading for the forest. It was very boggy underfoot, reminiscient of Brown Rigg Head, for those who know it.

I am now camped at the Devil's Bridge campsite. Tomorrow I intend taking the narrow guage steam railway down to Aberystwyth. I will then head for Torquay, to meet up with Shiel who arrives from NZ today. I've just walked about half of the Cambrian Way and may come over and do the second half next year, hopefully in better weather.

Tue 27 July

2010-07-28T10:48:00.003+01:00

Pontrhydfendigaid to Claerddu Bothy.

An easy day today. I stayed at Red Lion, a hotel which is in the process of renovation. I left at about 9:30 am in very very light rain. The weather improved as day wore on, but there was very little sun so no suntan lotion or sun hat needed.

A new path has been put in on the left, just before Tyncwm Farm , removing the need to go through the farm. A new bridge has been put in to make it possible to cross the river higher up the valley.

I had a pleasant time walking up to Teifi Pools, but it was still a bit wet underfoot. I may have seen two red kites.

Got to Bothy about 2:00 pm and just spent time relaxing and enjoying a short day. After about an hour a group of 4 teenagers turned up and camped outside. They are doing their Duke of Edinburgh awards. I had a good time chatting to them.

Mon 26 July

2010-07-28T10:32:00.003+01:00

Ty'n-y-cornel to Pontrhydfendigaid

I left the YHA in slight drizzle, which got worse as the day progressed. I had kindly been advised to walk on the ridge and keep the forest, a few 100m away, on my left. I saw the forest once for a few minutes and that was it!

Visibility was dreadfull, making it difficult to avoid rough boggy ground, or find the path. It was all compass and gps work. Being alone, unable to see any distant land features, it was reassuring to at least know where I'd got to on the map. I was relieved to find the road near Nantymaen. Sadly the phone box had been badly vandalised and was unuseable.

I then rejoined the battle and set off to find Garn Gron. I had to get within about 30 m of the summit before I could see any cairn or the trig point. So much for the extensive views. It was only around 3:30 when I was nearly down off the moor, near the road, that it started to clear.

It was a very pleasant evening but a very hard day. I had made a really good job of drying and polishing my Scarpas before I left the YHA, but they are saturated again. I can remember one similar bad rainy day on the Pennine Way when it took me 10 hours to get from Edale to Crowden . Todays walk was only about 8 hours but there was no steep climbing involved just very rough terrain.

Garn Gron

2010-07-26T14:18:00.003+01:00

Grotty visibility on Garn Gron!--

Sun 25 July

2010-07-26T10:02:00.008+01:00

Rhandirmwyn to Ty'n-y-cornel YHA

It rained overnight, but by the time I left at 9am the tent was almost dry. Breakfast was chocolate and a muesli bar. A lovely walk up the Doethie Valley gradually climbing into better weather. A very clear track, compared to yesterday, but sometimes a little boggy. As I had been unable to get any sense from the YHA, after numerous phone calls, or visiting the web site (today) I didn't know what to expect. It turns out they had plenty of room in a great location. The hostel is privately owned now and I arrived just as a meeting of the trustees was coming to an end. I had a very pleasant evening in the company of Nigel, who is currently duty warden.

If you are walking the Cambrian Way, or would simply like an overnight walk from the C&CC site at Rhand.. this is a geat spot to choose. A good way to introduce your family to the pleasures of walking and hosteling.

Sat 24 July

2010-07-26T10:02:00.005+01:00

Talsarn to Rhandirmwyn

Nice quiet campsite for only 5 pounds, but no evening meal available at pub (Red Kite). Showers at site under renovation. I left the campsite just after 8am and headed by road to Sarnau, and thento Myddfai, where I picked up Tony Drake's route. I got lost trying to find way into wood above Llandovery, where I arrived a little after 12. I did some shopping then headed off on my own route to Rhand, via the river Towy. I thought it would be easier!

I found some 'rights of way' blocked by head high nettles and blackberry. I was wearing shorts and got very badly scratched and nettled. I washed arms and legs in the river but forgot about my face, not being able to see it. There was sufficienr blood running down the right side of my face that it caused a women to cry out in shock when she saw it near the campsite! I didn't see it until I was having a shower at the ccc site. If I had seen it earlier I would have blogged it. It looked much worse than it was. The worst problem was the pain and irritation from the nettle stings. I had a good ostrich steak in the pub but it is up quite a hill from the ccc site.

Fri 23 July

2010-07-24T12:18:00.008+01:00

Glyntawe to Talsarn

Had breakfast at the Cave Cafe, but it was not ready before about 9:30 rather than the 9:00 quoted.

It was a hard but very pleasant climb beside the river up the east side of Fan Hir. I was a bit worried what the climb up on to the ridge would be like just near Llyn Fan Fawr, but it turned out not to be too bad. There was then another hard pull up to the top of Fan Brycheiniog. I shared walking experiences on a little of the route, with a couple out walking for the day. They offered to take photos of me so I have proof I reached the top!

The walk down to Llyn y Fan Fach gave me one of the best all round views I've ever experienced in the British Jsles, simply magic.

The couple mentioned a farm selling puppies and they suggested I should query if they were doing teas today. They weren't but they said they would! I got a pot of tea and carrot cake in a beautifully peaceful farm garden. I had a most interesting chat with the couple running the farm and cafe.

The cafe is called, not surprisingly, The Farmyard Cafe. Kathrin Hofer, ran the cafe and said they sometimes allow campers to stay overnight. There are toilet facilities but no showers. She also mentioned the possibility of an evening meal being available. As the pub (Red Kite) at Talsarn closes now at 5:00 pm this could be a useful resting place for a Cambrian way walker. Contact details:- kathrin.hofer@ymail.com

I am currently at the campsite at Talsarn, good showers [50p] but no food available locally after 5pm.

Just a note of caution regarding compasses

2010-07-22T21:10:00.004+01:00

Because of dip angle effects I bought a new compass in the UK rather than trying to use my NZ compass. Last night when pitching camp I wanted a clear line of sight to the morning sun to dry the tent. I took out my compass. According to my compass East was in the wrong place, just about where the sun was setting! Low cloud hid the exact location. MY COMPASS IS NOW MAGNETISED 180 DEGREES OUT OF ITS ORIGINAL ALIGNMENT! I remember things didn't seem right getting off Fan Gyhirych and I resorted to checking wih gps. Because of the remagnetisation the weight compensation, to balance the dip effect, is also now in the wrong direction. The compass now sticks! I kept my cell phone and compass in the same jacket pocket for a while and l think that is when the remagnetisation must have taken place.

I have now narrowed down the compass problem to the case I bought for the cell phone. It is held shut by a powerful magnet! Beware Paul as I think you have the same sort of cell phone case!

Thu 22 July

2010-07-22T19:37:00.007+01:00

I dad a rest day today. I went looking around the Dan-yr-Ogof Caves. One of the longest cave systems I've walked in. The weather was mostly dry and sunny, but for a short period of rain about 4:00 pm. Tomorrow l head over Fan Hir and Fan Brycheiniog. I will camp or stay at the YHA depending on availability.

A summit

Chartist's Cave

Cliffs above Llangattock

Wed 21 July

2010-07-21T20:51:00.003+01:00

YHA near Storey Arms to Glyntawe.

Good breakfast at YHA at 7:30am, after a very good meal the previous evening. I didn't manage to set off walking until 9:30 am. I had a very scenic but hard climb on to the moor with pretty uneventful navigation to the road. However, I didn't see any standing stones, but met the road just where the track took off almost direct to Fan Gyrich. It looked a bit vertiginous but there was a barbed wire fence between me and the drop, and close up it looked less hairy than at a distance. I was overtaken continuously by army personnel out training,

Yesterday they were camped at the top of Pen-y-Fan, today I met them at the top of Fan Gyrich. The weather was much nicer today though! I got slightly lost making my way to the campsite at Glyntawe. A really well laid out site with a good pub nearby, The Gwyn Ams. I've just had a very good sirloin steak which should boost my Hb level.

I am taking a days rest at Glyntawe tomorrow to recharge my batteries, and to visit the caves nearby.

Tue 20 July

2010-07-21T09:16:00.005+01:00

Wild camp to YHA @ Llwyn-y-Celyn.
Got up after 7:00am and the rain was easing after pretty heavy rainfall overnight. I had the muesli I bought in the camp shop for breakfast, but it was not very nice. Everything was damp but I managed to strike camp in only low cloud rather than heavy rain. Visibility was about 100m.

I set off aross the moor using gps way-points, and by and large I was able to find a path going in my direction, l eventually met up with road but didn't see the huge army lorries parked there until I was within about 30m of them! In view of the poor visibility I climbed Pen-y-Fan via the more gradual old roman road.

I was passed by soldiers going up Pen-y-Fan, and made the mistake of following them for a while. Unfortunately they had veered from my route. It was hard work getting back on track. The weather was atrocious. Two-thirds of the way up I met a group of Duke of Ed. students who had decided to call it a day. I carried on and eventually reached the Storey Arms. There is a refreshment van their! Reputedly open every day but Christmas Day.

Just then the heavens opened! I decided to make for the YHA which turned out to be an excellent decision. I met a couple called Nick and Louise Carter and she recognised me by the fact that my accent was similar to that of Mike McGowan, who they knew and who I was at school with 50 years ago. A very happy ending to a pretty miserable day

Sun 18 July

2010-07-18T16:40:00.003+01:00

I spent the day in Crickhowell recovering. I had the largest breakfast I have ever had, for £5, and then went back to the tent to sleep it off. I am now in the information centre using the Internet. It's nearly 5 pm and I'm just starting to feel as though I can set off again tomorrow. There will probably be no posts for a while as I am thinking of taking 2 days to get to Glyntawe, via the Storey Arms, with 2 wild camps on the way.

I am now returning to the campsite to clear my backlog of washing.

Photos

2010-07-18T11:17:00.003+01:00

Sat 17 July

2010-07-17T21:33:00.007+01:00

Did I suggest yesterday was hard? Forget that. Yesterday was easy. Today was hard! (For my scientific friends that is what we call a re-calibration.)
I had a great evening meal at the Grange in Capel-Y-Ffin amongst very good company, not walkers this time but horse riders. The conversations would have been completely unintelligible to me but for my almost daily visits to Hutt Valley RDA.

I got a breakfast for 8:00am but was delayed polishing my boots etc. It was well after 9:00 by the time I left the Grange. By the time I had rung Shiel (my wife) from the phone box opposite the Capel, (of -y-Ffin fame) it was about 10:00 am.

Instead of taking Tony Drake's route up the valley I took a very steep, but clear path straight onto the end of the ridge fron where it was a gradually sloping walk to Twmpa. The way underfoot was reminiscent of walking the Pennine Way above Edale.

At the top I had a chance neeting with two blokes, Brian and Ian, out on a day walk from Merthyr. Photographs may hopefully soon appear. We had a great time chatting while we walked along, putting the world to rights, and it made the climb to Waun Fach much easier for me. They left me on the walk to head down to the Grwyne Fawr reservoir. I thought I had done most of the climbing by then so I was in for a few surprises. The days had started with terrible wind and rain but gradually got better as the day wore on, but the cross wind was always pretty fierce.

To give credit to Tony Drake, today's walk must be one of the best ridge walks in Britain. If you are only carrying a day pack. However with a full camping pack, and I'm not a light packer, it was very hard work. I reached the campsite after 9 hours, absolutely knackered! Mind you it is possible some of the fatigue and sweating I have suffered since the walk might have other causes. However the 'mother node' in my neck was smaller than it's been for 20 years, after the walk.

The campsite in Crickhowell is an excellent walkers campsite but you have to be over 18 years old.

Fri 16 July

2010-07-17T12:11:00.008+01:00

It was about 9:15am by the time I left the B&B. By the time I had bought a compass suitable for the northern hemisphere it was about 9:45am, and by the time I eventually found the correct road leading to sugar loaf it was nearer 10:00!

The navigation to the top of Sugar Loaf was uncomplicated but the steep track, especially near the summit, was hard work. I only spent a few minutes at the top as it was clear rain was heading in. There were a few people up there and one group offered to take a photo of me by the trig. point. I checked my way off Sugar Loaf with someone on the summit and then made an uneventful trip down to Forest Coal Pit. I made a phone call to my B&B to tell them I was running late.

I stopped at a farm, on the way up to Garn-wen, to take on extra water and had a very enjoyable conversation with a farmer and his wife. I positively sailed up the next few km. It made me realise that meeting interesting friendly people is more important to me than extensive views from a mountain ridge.

After leaving the farmhouse the route was well defined and almost became a 'motorway' when it joined the Brecon Way. I met a large group of school children doing their Duke of Edinbrough walk, near where the Brecon way turned down East. The weather deteriorated to periods of howling wind and rain interspersed with bits of sunshine. I met a chap who said I would have to walk down over the moor to Capel-y-Ffin but I eventually found a pretty clear path down, starting at a large cairn.

When tired at the end of the day going steeply down hill is nearly as bad as going up

Thu 15 July, Pontypool to Abergavenny

2010-07-16T08:44:00.006+01:00

I left Ty Scon Jacob at 9:30am and found a quiet path down to town, via a reputed Old Roman Road and a short path through the forest. I the went up a very quiet country lane to meet up with Tony Drake's route a few hundred yards past the folly. A bit tricky finding the route across a river, behind a farm but after that it was simple contour walking just to the east of the ridge. I had extensive views, and it was quite windy, but at least the morning rain had cleared. I lost the track about a mile or two from the road and it was very hard going underfoot until I picked it up again. I stopped to rest at the road crossing and met up with 4 men out walking for the day. After moving off, one of them, a fellow Yorkhireman, came back to tell me that I should turn off the road onto the path at a small horse trough. That was very useful information and I had a long, if uneventful climb, up to Blorenge. The first part of the descent to Abergavenny was well marked. Then I followed a long tricky descent through high bracken before I eventually found the path which leads down to a tunnel under the canal. Walking down Blorenge was harder than walking up!

Wed 14 July, Lower Machen to Pontypool

2010-07-15T21:53:00.005+01:00

I stayed at The Forge B&B in Lower Machen, which I reached via Draethen. There was a very nice pub in Draethen, good atmosphere, and a pint of Guinness with a cajun chicken with salad and boiled potatoes cost less than 10 pounds!

The landlady at The Forge suggested two ways to get up Mynydd Machen. I took the JOGLE version, a nice quiet coutry road up to join the Sirhowy Valley Walkway, which took me all the way to the top of Mynydd Machen, in fine weather. The path down through the forest at Risca appears to have been blocked by bulldozed trees, whether by accident or design, I am not sure. Local ramblers might be interested in the changes. I had a pleasant walk through the sports ground in Risca where I met two blokes, my age, who I asked about restaurants. They suggested a little cafe on the canal, just metres off the road up to Twmbarlwm.

It started to rain whilst I was in the cafe and continued intermmitantly until I reached the parking area just before the last steep pull for the summit. The path along the ridge was clearly defined until about 700m from the Blaen Bran reservoir where I lost the path in the long bracken. I eventually found a path to the reservoir and then headed to my B&B at Ty Shon Jacob farm via Upper and Lower race. The farm is about 300m above the town of Pontypool so I didn't bother making an extra trip down to a pub for a meal. It rained heavily, on and off, all night

Cardiff Photos

2010-07-13T21:48:00.002+01:00

Tuesday July 13, 2010

2010-07-13T21:25:00.004+01:00

I caught a bus to Cardiff Castle fom just outside my hotel, The Tane, arriving at 8:30am on a dull and overcast morning. Good walking conditions initially. I walked up the east bank of the Taff river. Just before the turnoff to the canal I met up with the snail I met last year on my JOGLE. He's obviously making better progress than I expected!

Shortly afterwards I met up Glyn Brewer, and he acted as my guide to just before Tongwynlais. He used the Taff trail, which appeared much simpler than the canal route in the book. It was an interesting encounter and Glyn was very knowledgeable about the history of the region. The time flew by.

I soon arrived at Castell Coch and then climbed on to the Rhymney Valley Ridgeway. I followed the standard route to about 1 mile past Rudry when l diverted, via Draethen, to my B&B, The Forge, at Lower Machen. l went back to the pub in Draethen for my evening meal. A Guinness and cajun chicken with salad for just under 10 pounds. The rain was not too unpleasant until just after Rudry and it had cleared up again in time for my trip to the pub.

The Snail making steady progress

The beginning

2010-07-12T12:24:00.003+01:00

Well after a long period of dry weather the rain has started, just as I set out for Cardiff by train. I will soon be on my walk.

Mr. Bean Goes Walking in Wales.

2010-07-06T01:31:00.004+01:00

The title above is in deference to my former colleagues on the RV Tangaroa but it is already becoming too prophetic for comfort. I am planning a walk on part of the Cambrian Way. In the process I was trying to find accommodation at a campsite near Talsarn. I made contact with a very pleasant lady at the campsite and pointed out the uncertainty in my arrival date due to walking a long way on foot. She said there would be no need for me to book as a single person tent could be easily accommodated in an emergency. I then went on to inquire as to where I could get an evening meal. She suggested the pub in Talsarnau. I took this to be some kind of local name for Talsarn. However my suspicions were aroused when in a later e-mail she suggested that failing the pub being open I could always order an Indian take away from Harlech.

Now my knowledge of Welsh geography is slim at best but I knew that in planning my route I had never come across the name Harlech. On checking I found it is more than 100km from Talsarn! However, not surprisingly, Harlech is very near Talsarnau, which also has a campsite.

I think for me (or even Mr Bean) this is a record. This year I've managed to get lost before the walk has even started.

2010-03-26T23:29:00.005Z

Charities have now received their funds!

Hi All,
well it's been a long time coming but at last I can report that Charity Giving has paid out both the Malghan Institute in New Zealand and Leukaemia Research in the UK. The Malaghan Institute received $NZ 2597.11 on 3/2/2010 and yesterday (26/3/2010) Leukaemia Research received ₤1170.38. There were also contributions totaling $150 direct to the Malaghan Institute from Rob Crozier and Mike Rietveld in New Zealand.

Between us we’ve raised over $NZ 5,000 dollars or ₤2500. Thank you one and all for your support.

The long distance walking season appears to have already opened up in the UK and Mick and Gayle, who provided me with support in Wolverhampton last year, are 5 days into their walk from Dover to Cape Wrath. You can find their site under Mick&Gayle in the links on the RHS of this page. They are collecting for Help for Heros and would appreciate your support. They provide daily updates of their adventures which should keep you entertained for about the next 2 months.

Afterthoughts -- Updated 14th Oct

2009-10-06T15:17:00.003+01:00

Well we are now back in New Zealand in a spring-time that seems more like mid-winter. The woodburner and the heat pump are running and I'm still feeling the cold.

I've got Colin to post the photo Sally took of me at Land's End. It's quite helpful she took the picture as I forgot to sign the official book at Land's End to say I had finished the walk. Doh! It is a bit sad really as if someone checks the books for statistical purposes it will look as though I started out from John o'Groats but never reached Land's End. There was an official photo taken of me at Land's End but I have yet to see it and with the UK postal system in its current state it may be a while before I do.

Health Issues
By the end of the walk my sore right toe was all but healed and generally I was feeling pretty fit. When I compare the photographs of myself taken just before the walk with those taken just after I clearly look a lot healthier after the walk. My weight dropped from 71.6kg (11st 3lb) measured in Torquay before the walk to 64.6kg (10st 2lb) measured in Penzance after I finished. However after less than 2 weeks holidaying in the UK my weight was back up again to 69.1kg (10st 12lb). My home scales now put me at 69.7kg. I have had no leg or foot problems since the walk ended. The GERD, which I was suffering from before the walk, has disappeared. I stopped needing Gaviscon after about a fortnight of walking and I've not taken Losec now for 3 weeks. I did however have my first ever full blown migraine the evening of the day after the walk finished and I've been troubled with headaches on and off since, but thankfully not with the same intensity.

I had a blood test last Thursday and my lymphocyte count was in the normal range at 3.5x10^9/L and fractionally below what it was when the walk started (3.6x10^9/L). My red cell count was just in the normal range when I started the walk but slightly below the normal range when measured last week. It has been lower in the past. My haemoglobin, at 130g/L, is the lowest it has ever been, having dropped from around 140g/L before the walk. I am hoping this is just a result of the foot impact over 1000 miles of walking and not a CLL related change. It will be interesting to see if it returns to its normal level over the next few weeks/months.

Donations Closed
I went to the Charitygiving website today and locked out any further donations for Cancerwalker. However anyone who wishes to do so can still go to the links provided on this page and donate directly to either the Malaghan Institute or Leukaemia Research should they wish to do so. When I hear back from Charitygiving I will let you know the final amount we raised for the Malaghan Institute and Leukaemia Research plus any monies donated directly to the charities as a result of the walk.

Acknowledgments
Thank you all for your generosity! Many thanks also to those of you who took the time off to come and walk with me. It made my journey much more enjoyable and memorable. Thanks also to those who provided transport or accommodation or provided a laundry service and those who did 'all of the above'. I truly enjoyed your company. Thanks to those of you who came to take me out to dinner and help me relax after a long day walking. Your companionship was much appreciated. Some were old friends, some I hadn't met for almost half a century, whilst others were new friends met through the walk. Thank you one and all.

Finally I must thank those of you working behind the scenes. Many thanks Ron for you support with publicity in the UK and on the ACOR site. Thank you Colin for keeping the blog updates flowing and dealing with communications queries. Thank you Sarah for converting my text messages about donations into actual donations on the Charitygiving website. It just a pity we weren't able to maxout your credit card with the donations! Thanks to Weed for acting as a phone messenger and joining Sally, Kit, Robin to come and cheer me in at Land's End.

Finally thanks to my wife Shiel for taking down my dictated blog entries in New Zealand, typing them up and then e-mailing them for Colin to post. This was needed for the first half of the walk to Newcastle. In Newcastle I got a new phone and was able to blog directly to Colin. Shiel also provided me with transport at the start and end of each day for the last 8 days of the walk in Devon and Cornwall. This meant I could travel a more direct route to Land's End without worrying about finding a campsite at the end of the day. It also meant I had the luxury of B&B accommodation.

Gear
The biggest success in the equipment area has to be my map system. I used double sided A4 sized maps on a scale of 1:50,000 downloaded from a DVD supplied by Quo. I used their maps as quite simply, at only 100 UK pounds, they were much cheaper than everyone elses. I'm still waiting to get a refund for the VAT I paid though. If they read this they might like to note I would be happy for them to pay it directly to the charities I am supporting. On most days I printed the maps to the largest size I could that still allowed me to get the whole day's walk on one double sided page. In city areas like Edinburgh and Wolverhampton however I finished up needing two maps per days walk to be able to resolve all the street detail. This however may just be a problem for older walkers, like myself, who suffer presbyopia. I laminated all the maps and never had any trouble with them on even the wettest days. In fact they made useful waterproof mats when one wanted to sit on a wet park bench. I stored the 'map in use' rolled up under a loop on one of my rucksack straps. However I think they would also roll up quite nicely around a walking pole where they could be held in place by a couple of Terry clips. The laminated maps were quite heavy so I only carried enough for about 22 days at a time. My sister posted the maps, as needed, to the nearest campsite at which I intended to stay. It appears the 'Post Restante' service is no longer available in the UK, or at least that's what I was told. I only lost one of my maps, somewhere near Pitlochry.

When I started the walk I had two pairs of old Scarpa leather boots. I estimate one pair had done about 500 miles, the other 1200miles. I started in the 500 mile pair and used them until I was joined by Shiel who brought with her the older pair. I used them for the last part of the trip. The first pair are badly worn down at the heels but when repaired are probably good for a few hundred miles more. The older pair, which were repaired just before the walk, will probably soon start to leak where the leather flexes most in the region just behind the smallest toe. They are already badly cracked. The older Scarpa boots are fantastic at keeping the feet dry. Water only gets in if it goes in over the top of the boot. I'd like to get another new pair of the boots I used but sadly they've changed the design and I don't like the new ones.

I was a bit dissapointed with the Osprey Aether 85 rucksac. I think some of the problems arose from the fact that I had to buy it via the Internet and I think I may have got a harness one size larger than I should have. I could get the harness to fit very snugly by pulling on the tension straps but I think some of the pulling may have been needed to compensate for the possibly oversized frame. This may explain why the metal frame rods punched through the harness. Two of the lid buckles also broke. I think some of the packs' weakness results from the designers reducing the amount of material used in the buckles etc to keep the weight down.

Final Photo

2009-10-06T04:19:00.003+01:00

Day 65, Botallack to Land's End (Planned: Balnoon to Land's End), Wed 9 Sep

2009-09-09T18:19:00.004+01:00

Summary

Today's Distance: ~25.8 km (16 miles)

Total Distance: 1628 km (1012 miles)

Distance to go: 0 km (o miles)

Report
Shiel put me down on the road outside Botallack at 8:40am and the final day of my walk had begun. What a contrast to yesterday. I could see where l was heading! Extensive views in every direction. Yesterday's walk would have been much more interesting in sunny weather.
I took the B3306 into St. Just, l missed the more direct route yesterday. However had l found it l wouldn't have met up with Shiel.

I took a small road out of St. Just, heading for the YHA in the Cot Valley and then a path up to the SWCP. Looking at the map now I see that the route I took was not exactly the one l'd planned. It's good to see that some things don't change.

I had a very pleasant and sunny walk along the SWCP to Sennen Cove where I am writing up the first part of this report. I'm in no hurry for once. It's only 12:15 and l've only 1.5 miles to go to Land's End.

I've just heard from my sister Kathleen that they are all waiting for me at Land's End so l can finish the walk...

I finished the walk at about 2:45pm and had an expected reception from Shiel, my sister Kathleen and brother-in-law Robin. An added boost however was that Kit and Sally were also there to greet me! They had driven down from Devon, about 150 miles, just to cheer me in. They even brought a donation with them from their friend Martin who they had told about my walk. Regular readers will remember that Kit and Sally came to take me out for an evening meal when l was in Devon. Kit was treated for PLL, a very rare form of leukaemia.

It is the generosity and friendship of such people, and others like them, who only two weeks ago were complete strangers, that will be my lasting memory of this walk. You hear and see so much gloom and doom in the press that you get a jaded outlook on humanity. To improve your outlook on life:-
1. Sell the TV
2. Stop reading the papers.
3. Undertake a walk for a charity.
You'll also be able to 'come off' the Prozac.

I will sum up in a few days time and also add some comments on kit and maps which hopefully will be of help to others. I will continue accepting donations until we return to New Zealand in early October.

Photos -- check out page 5 and 6 of photo album for a few more photos

Day 64, Gwithian to Botallack (Planned: St. Agnes to Balnoon), Tue 8 Sep

2009-09-09T07:46:00.005+01:00

Summary

Today's distance: ~33.8 km (21 miles)

Total distance: 1603 km (996 miles)

Distance to go: 26 km (16 miles)

Report
We had breakfast at 7:30 am and I was back on the road, just before Gwithian, at 8:40 am. The weather was overcast, tending towards rain. I reached Hayle in good time and stopped to take a photograph of the memorial to Rick Rescorla (?) who was born in Hayle and lost his life helping fellow employees in the evacuation of one of the twin towers during the 9/11 terrorist attack. I thought it might be of interest to my readers in the US, including my son Colin, who organises this blog, and now resides in Connecticut.

While taking the photograph l was spotted by a friend of Ricks who provided me with extra information about him and mentioned the fact that there is a website dedicated to his memory. He also pointed me towards a pictorial display of some of Hayle's interesting industrial history.

He also gave me dire warnings against following my proposed route across the moors. I took the road to Lelant Dons with one of my famous ''long cuts'' near Splattenridden. I stopped someone, Nick Ridge, to get local knowledge on my plannd route and he did not seem phazed by it. He also very kindly gave me a donation.

A little further down the road I met up with Chloe and Simone, two sisters down from London, who were out for a walk. They acted as my guides to near Nancledra and suggested my original route, via Amalveor, would be the easiest to follow on the ground. Walking with them was really enjoyable and boosted my morale for the day.

The boost was to be short lived however as l arrived at Amalveor to find the path obstructed with path closed signs. I rang the number on the sign to get detailed information but no one was in the office who knew about the closure, set up in April. The girl in the office rang back but only seemed to have details of a SWCP closure. I wonder if the sign was put in the wrong place as it talked of a slip near a cliff and no cliffs are visible on my OS map of the path west from Amalveor. In the end I decided to follow a parallel path about 1km south, starting from Embla.

I got to the farm road just north of Borifty without too much of a problem and found a path, not shown on the OS map that finished up near Tredinnick. Visibility was quite poor but by good fortune someone from the farm was arriving by car and I got useful information from her. I headed on a path to Lanyon Farm but took the wrong path at a fork. This added a few 100metres to my walk but I didn't mind as Lanyon Farm do cream teas, and they had no scone shortages! Recharged, I headed NW up the road towards the turn off to Little Bosullow, where I met up with Shiel.

Although the rain was now quite heavy l decided to walk on south west towards Tregeseal. I knew I would get the wrong path among the plethora of paths near Carn Keidjack, and get the wrong path I did. I finished up just south of Carnyorth. However I could see the farm builings and decided it would be quicker to walk on a farm access road than walk on the very boggy paths across the moor.

I met up with Shiel at Botallack from where I head via St.Just to Land's End tomorrow. Todays walk was long, at 9 1/4 hours but I find it easier now to continue a long day rather than get up early the next morning. The end is in sight and I've not yet told you of my observations of single industrial gloves, seen on at the side of many roads, or of my conversations with sheep and cows.

Day 63, Perranporth to Gwithian (Planned St. Coulomb Major to St. Agnes), Mon 7 Sep

2009-09-07T21:19:00.003+01:00

Summary
Today's Distance: ~30 km (18.7 miles)
Total Distance: 1569 km (975 miles)
Distance to go: 60 km (37 miles)

Report
Breakfast at 7:30am and back on road at Perranporth sea front at 8:35am. My first day back on the South West Coast Path. l found this first section to the outskirts of St. Agnes a little vertiginous, but l'm sure most people would have no problem with it. I left the SWCP near Cross Coombe and headed via Wheal Kitty and the outskirts of St. Agnes through the Cemetary and a good path to Mingoon (?). I stopped at the shops in St. Agnes and bought a bottle of milk shake which l drank on my way to the Cemetary. I took off my pack and jumped on the bottle to sqash it and reduce its size. I then started pushing it into one of the side pockets of my pack. A lady walking by must have been watching all this action and very kindly offered to drop the bottle in a waste bin as she was heading back into town. It never ceases to surprise me how helpful passing strangers can be. Perhaps l've been reading too many newspapers.

I continued on the road through Towan Cross to Porthtowan where l wisely asked directions at a garage. I was informed that my planned route via a disused airfield was not possible as it was MOD land, so at Factory Farm l returned to the SWCP. Then followed a pleasant but at times arduous walk to Portreath. Quite a few steps to go up and down across two small valleys. On the way to Portreath l met Brian and his family out for a walk, we chatted and they very kindly gave me a donation. I stopped at the Portreath Arms for lunch where l received my second donation of the day from Martin. I went wrong when leaving Portreath and finished up heading for Illogan. I eventually found my way out on the B3301 which l followed to a turnoff at Bassets Cove where l joined the SWCP again.

I followed the SWCP to a car park just past Hell's Mouth where l met a Dutchman, another long distance walker, and we chatted for a while about walking. I then followed the B3301, with some care to Gwithian from where l leave for Hayle (and beyond) tomorrow. We had our evening meal in a pub at Phillack where l had the best salad yet supplied as a side dish to lasagne.

Day 62, Rosenannon to Perranporth (Planned: St. Mabyn to St. Coulomb Major), Sun 6 Sep

2009-09-06T20:57:00.003+01:00

Summary
Today's Distance: ~23 km (14.4 miles)
Total Distance: 1539 km (956 miles)
Distance to go: 90 km (56 miles)

Report
Breakfast again at 7:30am and I was placed on the road at Rosenanon at 8:55am. I decided to ignore a footpath shortcut and followed the road via Borlasevath, Tremayne and Tregamere to St Coulomb Major. My experience with short sections of paths later today, suggests l made the correct decision.

l was in St. Coulomb Major by 10:10am and rehydrated with a bottle of chocolate milkshake: 500ml of water, sugar and fat all for less than a pound! The weather improved as l walked on through White Cross and l reached St. Newlyn East by 1:30pm where l had lunch. At Fiddlers Green my troubles began. l wanted to take a path to Scotland Farm and l couldn't find it. The path was shown on my map emerging from the back of a house so l went to the house and knocked on the door. A very pleasant chap came out and said he would take me to where the path started. It was good that he did as l wouldn't have found it without his help. (Sorry l should have taken a photo.) Once l had climbed up onto the path corridor it was easy to follow; fenced on boths sides and just over a metre wide. The going wasn't too bad as some of the vegetation had recently been trimmed by the gentleman to whom l had been talking. Nearer to Scotland farm the track was harder to find and very, very boggy and l could only maintain dry feet by stepping from one clump of bog grass to another.

The next section of path was even more of a problem, but this time largely man-made rather than natural. It was only about 300m in length and joined two farm access roads which are also public footpaths over some of their length. I've attached photographs of the entrance to the path and the electric fences, barbed wire and corrugated iron blocking it (photos coming later). I've also shown how the exit to the path is still quite clearly marked, unlike the entry. I continued to follow paths, which gradually improved, all the way into Perranporth. Perranporth is on the South West Coast Path (SWCP) and l walked the section from Penzance to Minehead in 2006. As a result my feet have actually walked all the way from John o'Groats to Land's End, l've yet to walk it at 'one go' though. Tonight we are staying in a B&B near Goonhavern.

Photos
Go to page 5 of the photo album for new photos

Day 61, Watergate to Rosenannon (Planned:Wainhouse Corner to St. Mabyn), Sat 5 Sep

2009-09-05T22:28:00.005+01:00

Summary
Today's Distance: 32 km (20 miles)
Total Distance: 1514 km (941 miles)
Distance to go: 113 km (70 miles)

Report:
We breakfasted at 7:30am and l was back on the road in Watergate at 8:55am. Rain threatened but did not eventuate and l had an enjoyable walk on quiet country roads. I walked via Tuckingmill to St. Tudy where l arrived in time for an over 60's morning coffee and biscuit. I asked directions and was advised to ask a couple of local ladies. I was told l would have to cross the border.

One of the ladies told me how she had had to cross the border when she got married. However she went on to say that after her husband retired she got him to take her back home across the border. The border in question? The parish border between St. Tudy and St. Mabyn.

From St. Tudy l crossed the border and went via Cross Hill and Castle Killibury to Wadebridge. This required an unpleasant 1km walk beside the A39. l did however meet and chat to 3 cyclists heading north on the A39 on their LEJOG. I arrived in Wadebridge about 1:35pm where l met up with Shiel and we had lunch. Like yesterday we ordered 2 cream teas and were told, like yesterday,that they had only enough scones to make one cream tea. In fact they had insufficient clotted cream to make one cream tea. Is there a national scone shortage? I left Wadebridge via Burlawn and went past the St. Breock wind farm. Near the wind farm, on the Saint's Way, l passed 4 more cyclists starting their LEJOG.

I ended my day at the village of Rosenannon, about 3miles short of St. Mabyn, the end point I originally planned for tomorrow. We are staying at a farm B&B near Winnard's Perch and we had our evening meal at a pub in St. Coulomb Major. A friend of mine in NZ, Murray S, has suggested that my JOGLE walk is just an excuse to make a 66 day, 1000 mile pub crawl. The idea is not without merit.

Day 60, Tamar Bridge to Watergate (Planned: Thurdon to Wainhouse Corner), Fri 4 Sep

2009-09-04T21:26:00.004+01:00

Summary
Today’s distance: 29.8 km (18.5 miles)
Total distance: 1483 km (922 miles)
Distance to go: 145 km (90 miles)

Report
Last night we stayed at a farm B&B at Hopworthy. It had very friendly owners who breed quality eventers, two of which have competed at international level. (lt may interest those planning a LEJOG that the cost for each of us last night was less than my staying at the Caravan Club site in Tewkesbury and breakfasting in Witherspoons).
I started walking from the Tamar bridge at 8:45am. The weather was much like the last few days, showery with a strong cold wind, very autumnal. I only met one other backpacker today

and s/he was progressing more slowly than l was. It will probably take many generations to finish it's JOGLE. The roads were quiet and l made good time to Whitestones where l headed south and then south west to Middle Wheatley by which time l was off my map. I had to navigate to Canworthy Water using a 1 in 250,000 car map. It was a much smaller place than l expected, with no lunch place that l could find. I climbed steadily to Hallworthy where l joined the A395 and found a pub so l was able to have a late lunch. After lunch l headed south west for about 3km and then picked up a path to an old airport. From there l headed south west, past the Crowdy reservoir,
Because l have loyal supporters in the US l decided to extend my walk today and instead of ending my walk at the Crowdy reservoir l decided to walk on for a few extra miles. I wanted to end my day(s) with Watergate, like another well-known Richard. Sadly the village is too small for a sign saying 'WATERGATE.' A couple of locals told my wife they took the name plate down during the last war and it never got put back up again. However l did manage to get a photo of the name plate of the local farm.

Day 59, Petrockstow (Dolton) to Whitstone (Thurdon), Thu 3 Sep

2009-09-04T08:42:00.003+01:00

Summary
Today’s distance: 23.4 km (14.5 miles)
Total distance: 1420 km (882 miles)
Distance to go: 208 km (129 miles)

Report
We had breakfast at the B&B in Merton at 7:30 am and Shiel deposited me at the cross roads at North Town by 8:30. I headed west along what was at first a busy road but after 9:00am there was an appreciable drop in traffic. I took a path through a wood near Filleigh Moor, to cut off a corner, and continued to Shebbear where l found a small local store open. I was able to buy two orange drinks.

Just before Shebbear l had met two heavliy laden cyclists and had asked where they were headed. They were heading for John o'Groats via Wales and lreland, before taking a ferry to Scotland. We compared notes before heading our separate ways.
From Shebbear l continued west, first via a very boggy path and then via a quiet minor road to Oxenpark, where l then headed south west towards Woodacott and then Holsworthy. I arrived at the A388, 1km north of Holsworthy, just after 1:00pm and found Shiel waiting. We arranged to meet up again near the church and then go to lunch. On closer inspection however l found there were two churches so by the time we eventually met up in the centre of Holsworthy it was 1:50pm. We went to a small cafe for a cream tea each but had to make do with one between us as they only had two scones left. We parted in Holsworthy at 2:55pm with the arrangement that l was to walk to the bridge over the Tamar on the small minor road about 2 miles north east of Whitstone. I made better time than l expected and was there by 4:30pm.

We both then travelled by car to our B&B in Hopworthy where l had a good soak in the bath before we headed for an evening meal at the pub in Pyworthy. To get to Wainstone Corner, the original end point for tomorrow, would only be 12km. However l intend re-routing slightly. I plan to walk to Whitstone and then head for Middle Wheatley. I then drop off the edge of my map! Following a road atlas, 1:250,000, l plan to head roughly south to South Wheatley and then south west to Canworthy Water, where l will again get back on my map, meeting my old planned route about 0.5km south of Trelash. I then plan to continue on towards St. Mabyn stopping at some convenient location l reach between 4:00 and 5:00pm.

Day 58, Romansleigh to Dolton (Petrockstow), Wed 2 Sep

2009-09-02T22:43:00.003+01:00

Summary
Today’s Distance: 23.4 km (14.5 miles)
Total Distance: 1420 km (882 miles)
Distance to go: 208 km (129 miles)

Report
I had a full english breakfast at the B&B and then Shiel put me back on the road at Lightleigh Cross at 8:45am. I went on minor roads via Spittle Farm to Elstone and then on a path to Colleton Mills. It was overcast, but not raining, at first. Shortly after crossing the A377 l was offered lifts twice within the space of five minutes. Sadly l had to turn both offers down as l headed for Dolton via Hansford Cross and Ashreignry, and then Hollocombe Moor.
The rain started when l reached the crossing of the A3124 and l was soaked by the time l reached the pub in Dalton, around 1:00pm.

There l met up with my wife, Shiel, and my sister and brother-in-law who had traveled up from Torquay for the day. We had a great time chatting, but service was slow and it was after 2:00pm before we went our separate ways. The rain started to pour down as l headed for the Tarka trail and Petrockstow. I got to Petrockstow by about 4:50pm and stopped at the junction in North Town where Shiel will drop me off tomorrow.

We are staying at a nice B&B in Merton and had our evening meal at the pub in Petrockstowe, The pub had a great atmosphere and served excellent food. One of the best meals I’ve had on the whole trip.
As my stopping points are no longer constrained by campsite locations tomorrow l will be heading in the direction of Holsworthy rather than Thurdon and hope to join the planned route again at Pyworthy.
I was carrying slightly less weight today as Shiel took my dirty washing to a launderette in Great Torrington. In a single visit she managed to melt my two polypropylene vests in the dryer, something l had been unable to manage in two months of traveling.

Donation Site Issue

2009-09-02T19:13:00.001+01:00

People from Europe and the United States have been unable to make a donation on the Charity Giving website. The website is experiencing difficulties with exchange rate and banking charges for funds incoming from outside the UK. Hopefully this issue will be resolved promptly.

In the mean time, non-UK user can send a cheque payable to “The Dove Trust” and send it to them via snail mail, and on the BACK of the cheque put "Richard Barr cll walk".

The address to send to is:

The Dove Trust,
Park Farm,
Dareham Road,
Bawdeswell,
Norfolk,
NR20 4AA,
United Kingdom.

They will gather all/any cheques and in the due course of time will process them as a single transaction (this will help keep down bank fees), but will acknowledge each individual who sends a cheque by showing the amount and the donors name on the www.charitygiving.co.uk/cllwalker web site.

If you have any questions please contact me on cllwalk@gmail.com

Day 57, Wimbleball Lake to Lightleigh Cross, Tue 1 Sep

2009-09-02T08:44:00.003+01:00

Summary
Today's distance: 30.3 km (18.8 miles)
Total distance: 1397 km (868 miles)
Distance to go: 232 km (144 miles)

Report:
I left Wimbleball Lake at 7:45am on a path heading roughly SW. It was quite boggy. It led to a road by the River Hadden, which deteriorated into a very muddy 4wd track. There were signs saying road closed but I assumed they had been left after a previous job on the road. However I eventually met up with workmen digging up the track who wanted to send me back the way I'd come. When I explained that I was doing a charity JOGLE they very kindly halted work for a few minutes so I could eventually make my way to Bury and then by minor roads to Brushford where I was able to buy sandwiches at a garage. Then I took a cycle track to West Knowle running along an old railway bed. There seems to be a discrepancy between where the track ends and where the map says it ends. I then followed minor roads via Hawktree Moors and Roachill to the crossing with the A 361 at Side Moor where I had a snack in a transport caravan cafe. I asked for a toasted current teacake with cheese, which was not on the menu, but they quite happily made it for me. Then I had a very pleasant high walk, with extensive views, from Batsworthy Cross via Ash Moor to Gidley. I then headed NW and then W to Great Odam, Measbury and West Garland moors. All this time l was trying to make contact with my wife Shiel who had hired a car and was to take me off the road and return me to the same spot the next morning. Most of the problem was caused by the fact that I was giving her directions from a 1:50,000 map and she only had a 1:250,000 map in the car. Most of the small places I mentioned were not on her map! Eventually we meet up at Lightleigh Cross from where I will continue the walk tomorrow. We are staying in a friendly farmhouse B&B about 2 miles from the cross-roads and had a good meal at the pub in Chittlehamholt. Today was a longer walk than I would have wished, at 10 hours, but it means tomorrow's walk will be shorter.

Day 56, Flaxpool to Wimbleball Lak, Mon 31 Aug

2009-08-31T20:24:00.006+01:00

Summary
Today's Distance: 22.6 km (14 miles)
Distance completed: 1366 km (849 miles)
Distance to go: 262 km (163 miles)

Report
It's been one of those rare days today where l haven't got lost and had to back track. I left Flaxpool about 7:30am, after chatting with a group of walkers who were walking the Macmillan Way. It was overcast all day, especially when l climbed above the 300m mark. l think l was just walking in low cloud. I made my way on very quiet minor roads all day. A good route in that respect.
I went via Tolland to Brompton Ralph where l got into conversation with two ladies, one whose day it was to work in the shop. The shop was closed but she very kindly opened up to sell me food and drink. It was the only shop l passed between Flaxpool and Wimbleball Lake, the downside of todays route.
From Brompton Ralph l followed the route to Clatworthy and along past the reservoir to eventually reach Wimbleball Lake by 1:30 pm. At 6 hours l think that is my shortest day.
There is a good little tea room beside the lake which also acts as reception for the campsite. I started with steak pastie and tea followed by a walkers cream tea.
There is a pub within about a mile and a half at Brompton Regis and l will head there for my evening meal . Breakfast looks like being nuts and chocolate as the cafe doesn't open until 11:00am.
Hopefully my wife will be getting a hire car tomorrow and so l will no longer be constrained to picking a route defined by campsites. For example the day that originally went via Thurdon may be re-routed via Holsworthy. I just make this point in case anyone is thinking of meeting up with me. I'll try and blog any revised route beforehand. However some places, like Wimbleball Lake have no cell phone coverage. A quiet day and it looks like another quiet day tomorrow.

Update:
As my left big toe rubs in my boot l decided to go to the pub in Brompton Regis in my crocks. I also decided to choose the shortest path, over the fields, to the pub. The good news is my navigation was spot on. The bad news is the path was extremely boggy and really required boots and gaiters, but only over a relatively small section. The upshot was I had to sit in the pub with very wet feet.
Then I decided to return via the road that included a short cut up a bridleway. It was only around 8:00 pm but it was getting dark, especially under the trees. I came to a junction which wasn't shown on my map and this threw my junction counter out of kilter. Although l didn't know it at the time, l was going up the road to the west of King's Brompton Forest having taken the left instead of right turn. I could see the lake so knew which direction l wanted to go but it was too dark to read the map. I thought l would be back before it got dark and hadn't packed my head torch. Big mistake.
I decided to take a short cut across the fields but was blocked by the forest. However l saw car headlights on the road and made my way down to them where by luck l picked up a path to the road. It's obvious when you can see a map but very difficult in the dark. I stopped a car, that was coming past, to get directions to Wimbleball Lake and they said they were going there and would give me a lift. In the event l was back on the correct route and only 400m from the turn to the lake but without being able to see the map l had no idea.
I'd just like to thank the couple for the lift, as walking beside the road in the dark would have been quite unpleasant.

Day 55, Bawdrip to Flaxpool, Sun 30 Aug

2009-08-30T21:13:00.002+01:00

Summary
Today’s distance: 27.5 km (17.1 miles)
Total distance: 1343 km (835 miles)
Distance to go: 285 km (177 miles)

Report
I had no breakfast this morning and left the campsite with a damp tent at 7:45 am. I did my usual trick of taking the wrong path, and making my shortcut rather long. After crossing a wide river/drainage channel I took the A39 to Bridgwater and Witherspoons where I had a 'large breakfast' while I charged my cell phone. Then I decided to change my route to avoid some early hills and left on a westerly route to Spaxton and the Hawkridge reservoir. I then went via Lower Aisholt to Bishpool and the edge of a small wood. This was a steep climb, but it was the only one for the day. I then descended to West Bagborough, and after a snack in the pub headed via Heathfield and Hearn farm to the campsite at Flaxpool on the A358.
I asked about getting a pub meal and was told of two pubs, one of which was recommended. Sadly after walking 1 1/2miles to it I was told they don't do meals after 6:00pm on a Sunday!
I was lucky that when I got back to the campsite the shop was open and I could get a frozen meal to heat in a microwave they had available. Tomorrow is also going to be a problem day for food and for charging the cell phone so there may some hold up in blogging.

Day 54, Winscombe to Bawdrip, Sat 29 Aug

2009-08-29T23:11:00.002+01:00

Summary
Today’s Distance: 25.2 km (15.7 miles)
Total distance: 1316 km (818 miles)
Distance to go: 312 km (194 miles)

Report
I got up late today, after 6:00 am, as I had discovered last night that the pub/hotel next to the campsite would provide me with a breakfast after 8:00am. I left Winscombe by 8:30 am and took the path beside the A38 to Cross, where I took minor roads to Lower Weare. Then I went by a minor road and path to Badgworth. As I ended up on the wrong path the route was somewhat more circuitous than I had planned. Then I took minor roads to Stone Allerton and eventually reached Mark by lunch time. I lunched in a very pleasant pub called 'The Pack Horse' and had an interesting time chatting to 3 locals, one of whom was in NZ during the war. It was only after I left the pub I realised he must have been much older than he looked or behaved.

The countryside in this part of Somerset is very flat and criss-crossed with field drains. I imagine Lincolnshire must be somewhat similar. I followed minor roads and paths beside field drains all the way to the A38 at Bawdrip and 'The Fairways Caravan Park.' When the lady on reception discovered I was a charity walker she kindly refunded my fee so l could donate it to the charity on their behalf. What a great end to a quiet and somewhat painful day. My left big toe is starting to play up. It has been for a few days now.

Over the last few days I've been contacted by someone called Sally, whose husband has had a rare form of Leukemia, PLL. He has also suffered a transformation to lymphoma. I met up with them both this evening when they took me out for a meal to the King William public house in Catcott. I can honestly say I've never before felt so comfortable, in the company of complete strangers, as l did tonight. I can only hope Kit and Sally enjoyed the evening as much as I did.

Although my diagnosis was CLL I am very fortunate that I have been given all the good markers and may never need treatment. Kit has suffered quite a bit of nerve damage as a result of his illness. However I am sure his positive attitude and irrepressible humor have made significant contributions to his survival. Twenty pounds has been donated to the charity in thanks for the meal provided by Kit and Sally, but their companionship was priceless.

Chris, the publican at the King William, also came over to our table and generously gave me a donation of 20 pounds. What started as a quiet day has had a marvelous ending. However I must sign off as it's 11 pm and I need some sleep. Very many thanks to all today's donors.

Day 53, Gordano (Portbury) to Winscombe, Fri 28 Aug

2009-08-28T23:33:00.001+01:00

Summary
Today’s distance: 26.3 km (16.3 miles)
Total distance: 1291 km (802 miles)
Distance to go: 337 km (210 miles)

Report
I awoke at 5;45 am and had my second bath in 12 hours, having removed the tent which l had been drying out overnight. I had my continental breakfast and was on the road by 8:00am. I took what looked like a quiet narrow back road to Nailsea, at least on the map it looked quiet. Whilst it was surely very narrow, mostly one lane, it was very, very busy.

I went down through Blackwell and then went about 1 mile west on the A370 before taking a very quiet back-road to Claverham. I then went via a path up Cadbury Hill to Congresbury where I took a path heading west through the churchyard to join 'The Strawberry Line.' This is a cycle track running along an old rail bed, like the Tissington Trail I had walked on a few weeks ago.

On the outskirts of Winscome I met Andrew who is writing a cycling book dealing with the Somerset area. As we chatted time went by quickly. He kindly showed me a little turnoff to the campsite from the trail. I doubt l would have noticed it by myself. A typical 8 hour day with about 16 miles covered. Now I am in Somerset, with only Devon and Cornwall to go!

As it is a Bank Holiday weekend, as soon as I had showered I went around to the pub next door for my evening meal. It made a nice change not having to walk for 30 minutes to get to the pub. On returning to my tent l chatted briefly to a Dutchman in a caravan near my tent. A short while later he returned and invited me in for a coffee. I spent a very pleasant half hour chatting to him and his wife and two young children. Hopefully the meeting will inspire the young Sieswerdas to take up camping and walking.

Photos
New photos on page 4 of the photo album

Day 52, Shepperdine to Gordano (Portbury), Thu 27 Aug

2009-08-28T23:32:00.000+01:00

Summary
Today’s distance: 27.6 km (17.1 miles)
Total distance: 1265 km (786 miles)
Distance to go: 364 km (226 miles)

Report
The previous night I had made camp early at about 4:30pm as the sky was looking very black, enough the rain started and was then on and off all night. However, I was nice and snug in my tent. I had camped just to the side of the Severn Way path and North of a power station. When I passed the power station this morning I realised it was a nuclear power station. I'd prefer to have a scintillation counter if l am to go anywhere near a nuclear facility.

I finished the Tesco nuts for breakfast and was on the road/path by 7:05 am. I had an uneventful walk south apart from an annoying diversion into Oldbury-on-Severn to bypass a 10metre bridge. Still not sure of the reason. I passed plenty of steers or cows today, it was one thing or the udder, and a few horses. Cows are very inquisitive and tend to follow on behind you once you have passed them. However having seen what they do to PVC cable in my research days I would advise against camping in a field of them. The cow pies would be the least of your worries.

I stopped at a very nice and cheap bakery at Severn Beach for tea and cakes and then made my way to Chittening Warth where I lost the path and went by road to Avonmouth. In Avonmouth I paused in another bakery for coffee and to buy orange juice. Then I made my way beside the M5, over the river Avon, and then by a cycle track. After a brief spell of loosing my way, I eventually reached the Gordano services.At 50 pounds the bill is a record for my walk but when you average the cost with last night's, where I paid for nothing for accommodation and had no meal or drink in a pub, the cost is not too horrendous. It's done wonders for my morale. I had a good long soak in the bath. I checked they had baths as well as showers before I paid the bill. It may seem strange a Yorkshireman wanting a bath or shower every day as it is often thought that we use our baths to store the coal. However, most Yorkshiremen don't spend 8 to 10 hours a day walking.

I walked to the Priory pub in Portbury for an evening meal and discovered the roads are unsafe for a walker. I was able to sort out the best places to cross without the encumbrance of a pack though. The pub was the busiest pub I've been in on the whole walk.

Those of you l have contacted by e-mail tonight please note that this has only been possible because I have had access to power at the motel. Contact will be largely by the blog or Colin again from tomorrow onwards.

Day 51, Moreton Valence to Shepperdine, Wed 26 Aug

2009-08-27T10:20:00.000+01:00

Summary
Today’s distance: 27.6 km (17.1 miles)
Total distance: 1237 km (769 miles)
Distance to go: 391 km (243 miles)

Report
I awoke at 5:30 am to the sound of rain hitting the tent. For my pre breakfast I ate muesli and grapes which I had bought at a small pub last night. I was on the road by 7:30 am. I went past Moreton Valence church and then on farm tracks to Wheatenhurst. I joined the Gloucester to Shapness Canal just south of Frampton on Severn.

Just south of the Splatt bridge a bearded gentleman on a bicycle stopped and introduced himself as a blog follower and a JOGLE walker from the 1990's. Like many other LEJOG walkers he is also a TGO walker. We took to the road at Purton and Don, for that was his name, walked with me to Wanswell. There he left to cycle home, when the showers, that had been ever present, turned to heavy rain. Walking in Don's company the morning passed very quickly.

I stopped for lunch, an all day breakfast, at a very busy cafe in Berkeley. I meant to photograph the name plate of the town for my readers in the US but as usual forgot after the meal. I'd just like them to know I too have been to Berkeley. Then I headed back to the Severn Stop bank where I have camped for the night, just before a heavy and windy rain squall. This evening's meal is a bag of Tesco's unsalted, yogurt coated cashews and cranberries.

Day 50, Shuthonger Common (Tewkesbury) to Moreton Valence, Tue 25 Aug

2009-08-26T11:26:00.000+01:00

Summary
Today’s Distance: ~34.3 km (21.3 miles)
Total Distance: 1210 km (752 miles)
Distance to go: 419 km (260 miles)

Report
I awoke at 5:30 am, washed and packed up everything except the tent and went for breakfast in Witherspoons at 7:00 am. I also got to charge my cell phone. I returned to campsite and was packed and was ready to leave by 8:05 am. I followed the Severn Way all the way to Wainlode Hill where I then took minor roads and paths to Twigworth, where I picked up the A38 to Gloucester.

I had lunch in Debenhams and then headed West to pick up the Canal south to the manually operated rotating road bridge. Then I went by road around Quedgeley and Hardwicke to Moreton Valence. No donations or interesting conversations. A quiet, but longish day at 8.5 hours

Day 49, Hawford to Shuthonger Common (Tewkesbury), Mon 24 Aug

2009-08-26T11:25:00.000+01:00

Summary
Today’s Distance: ~30.2 km (18.8 miles)
Total Distance: 1175 km (730 miles)
Distance to go: 453 km (282 miles)

Report
I was up at about 5:40 am, had a pre-breakfast of the muesli bars and penguins I received as a gift at the cafe by the bridge yesterday. I was away walking by 7:00 am and was having my main, full english breakfast in Worcester just after 8:00 am at the little cafe on the riverside, just north of the road bridge over the Severn.

Then I followed the Severn Way to Kempsey, and walked beside the A38 to Severn Stoke where I had a good lunch in a pub near the church. I also asked to charge my cell phone whilst eating. While I was eating, rain came and it rained all the way to Upton where I had coffee in a pub. In the pub I received a donation from Paul and Viki when they found out what I was up to.

I then followed the West bank of the Severn to Tewkesbury and booked in at the Caravan Club site. I walked a little further than planned today to reduce the distance I need to walk tomorrow. At 17.40 pounds however it was a somewhat costly exercise. However, the camp is in the centre of town so I don't have to walk far to get something to eat.

Day 48, Wolverly to Hawford, Sun 23 Aug

2009-08-23T18:04:00.003+01:00

Summary
Today’s distance: 26 km (16.2 miles)
Total distance: 1145 km (712 miles)
Distance to go: 483 (300 miles)

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I got up at 6:15 and had a breakfast of cashew nuts and a bar of dark chocolate. I was on the road by 7:45. I used the camper's short cut to the site discovered by D&S. I then followed the canal to Kidderminster where I found a McDonalds that was open and had a 1000 calorie breakfast to set me up for the day, a 'big breakfast' followed by pancakes.
Then I followed the canal through to Stourport where I joined the Severn River Trail. I crossed the Severn at Holt Fleet to go to the pub, but discovered the 'River Side Cafe' run by Ann and Paul Hardborne. Paul was very interested when he found out what I was doing and it was clear from his questions that he quickly understood the problems involved in making such a walk. When he knew what I was doing he returned the money l had given him for the tea and gave me a couple of muesli bars and two penguins. I've made a donation to the charity in their name. It was a very pleasant interlude in an otherwise quiet day. I think Paul may have a word with his brother, a walker, about doing LEJOG.

On the run into Hawford, on the Severn Way, I found the most dangerous stile yet for me or for any other male with an inside leg measurement of 32." I was JUST able to lift my leg over it and place my foot on the step on the other side. However on taking my weight, the step dropped a couple of inches and so did l. I leave the rest to your imagination. Those within 10 km radius may have heard a few new choice words. I think this type of stile should be named after the ballet suite by Tchaikovsky.

For the last mile I had to leave the Severn Trail and follow the A449. I am now at a quiet site at Hawford.

Also,
last week I had left one of my phones outside the pub at Biggin. My phone was found by Mark Sharp, and he drove 20 miles out of his way to deliver it to the campsite at Cannock Chase. Very many thanks Mark.

Photo update

2009-08-23T00:01:00.002+01:00

The publcan and patrons of 'The Old Bush', Hinksford

More photos...
Go to page 3 of the photo album (link on the side bar) to see a few new photos. Usually new photos are uploaded twice a week

Day 47, Wolverhampton to Wolverley, Sat 22 Aug

2009-08-22T22:36:00.001+01:00

Summary
Today’s distance: 27.2 km (16.9 miles)
Total distance: 1119 km (695 miles)
Distance to go: 509 km (316 miles)

Report
I had an early breakfast with Mick and Gayle and we managed to get back to yesterdays finishing point by 8:15am. Thanks M&G for the great support. I headed for Goldthorn Park and then followed the path to a small wood in Park Hill. Florence, who was walking her dogs, showed me how the start to the path was now hidden and redirected me to the correct track, which I quickly lost in the wood. I came out of the wood on the wrong side. But luckily, I met a chap walking two dogs who put me on a new and clearer route to Penn Common.
I had a great second breakfast in the Baggeridge Country Park, probably the best full English breakfast I have eaten so far, and then made my way to Himley Hall, and then onto Himley.
Then I headed for the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal which I reached near the ‘Old Bush’ pub at Hinksford. I went in for a shandy and a chat and received donations from the publican and his wife, Trevor and Angela Hall, and their son Tim. I also received a donation from Derek Smith, a real cancer survivor.
Then I walked on to near Kinver where I met up with two walking friends, David and Sarah Puxley. We had last met up in 2005 whilst walking the Coast to Coast from Robin Hood’s Bay to St. Bee’s Head.
They had very kindly arranged to walk with me to Wolverly where they had also worked out my most direct route to the campsite. Thankfully it was a Camping and Caravan Club site, of which I am a member. I got a very friendly welcome and was only charged 5.82 pounds! I had a shower and then Dave and Sarah came around to take me out for a meal. We had a great time and a great meal. We hope to meet up again soon in either the UK or NZ. The charity received a meal donation of 15 pounds. Thanks Dave and Sarah for a very enjoyable afternoon and evening.
Tomorrow I have to walk alone.

Day 46, Cannock Chase to Wolverhampton, Fri 21 Aug

2009-08-21T23:02:00.002+01:00

Summary
Today’s distance: 29 km (18 miles)
Total distance: 1092 km (679 miles)
Distance to go: 536 km (333 miles)

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At 7:45 am this morning Mick brought Gayle to the campsite at Cannock Chase. She was coming to keep me company on today's walk to Wolverhampton and act as guide and interpreter. Actually l was pleasantly surprised with my walk around Wolverhampton. The city was much smaller and much less industrialized than I had expected. We had a great time chatting and the miles went by very quickly. We had a bit of hassle with the weather, which was quite showery, but we made good time to Essington where we stopped at the pub for a quick drink. We then headed for the canal south of Ashmore Park and made our way around the Eastern side of Wolverhampton.

Walking along the canal path it was very useful being with someone with local knowledge and Gayle knew exactly where to leave the towpath so we could lunch at Sainsbury's and l could go shopping in Boots. We arrived at our planned endpoint just after 4:00pm and then caught a local bus back into Wolverhampton. We then caught the train to Rugeley where Mick met us and took me to their home. There l was able to have a nice warm bath and a delicious evening meal with plenty of vegetables. On top of that l also got all my washing done! I've had a great time staying with Mick and Gayle. It's great to stay with such friendly people who have so much experience of long distance walking. As a gesture of thanks I have made a small donation to the charity on their behalf. Thanks Mick and Gayle for a great time.

Day 45, Uttoxeter to Cannock Chase, Thu 20 Aug

2009-08-20T15:01:00.002+01:00

Summary
Today’s distance: 24.6 km (15.3 miles)
Total distance: 1063 km (661 miles)
Distance to go: 565 km (351 miles)

Report
Last night I walked into Uttoxeter for my evening meal at Witherspoons. The best l can say is that at least it was better than I remembered my school dinners to have been. I then went to Tescos to get milk, muesli, strawberry yoghurt and fresh strawberries. I had one serving before going to bed and another when I awoke at 5:45am. I had let the muesli soak overnight for my breakfast serving. I packed quickly as it looked like rain was approaching and left the campsite at 7:15am. I met a nice group of people at the racecourse who were organizing a Western festival, over a number of days, to raise money for their local heart unit. They were a committed, friendly group.

I followed the Staffordsihe Way all the way to Stockwell Heath, a charming village with a little pond. I only really went wrong once, in Abbots Bromley where I finished up walking through the grounds of the girl's school. Thank goodness it was the holidays! However, if it had been term time there would probably have been someone around to put me one the right track. I arrived in AB at 11:20 before the pub opened at 12:00 so decided to divert to the pub at Colyton after passing through Stockell Heath. Unfortunately, that pub doesn't open at all during the day on weekdays. I am now in the first pub in Rugeley appropriately called 'The Yorkshireman'!

After leaving the Yorkshireman I headed across Rugelely towards Cannock Chase. On the way I was perusing the map, looking lost, when Peter, a landscape gardener saw me, We began to chat and he invited me in for a cup of tea, a pleasant interlude. I had then only about another 45 minutes walk to the campsite but it was mostly up hill on an extremely busy road. I arrived about 5:00 pm.

I checked in and showered and just returned to my tent when Mick arrived. He and Gayle walked the LEJOG last year and Martin had told me they would be in touch and would like to meet up with me and share experiences. Martin took me to the Ash Tree public house where we met up with Gayle and they shouted me my evening meal and we talked about walking. After a very pleasant evening Mark took me back to the campsite at Cannock Chase.

Day 44, Ashbourne to Uttoxeter, Wed 19 Aug

2009-08-19T22:23:00.001+01:00

Summary
Today’s distance: 20.9 km (13.0 miles)
Total distance: 1038 km (645 miles)
Distance to go: 590 km (367 miles)

Report
I had coffee with Neville and Judith and then went to 'camel up' with a full english breakfast at the campsite cafe. I left slightly before N&J at about 9:15 and they passed me on the way out of the campsite.
I only went a short way south on the Tissington trail before turning off to join the road just before the long illuminated tunnel.
I took the path behind a hospital heading for the back of a sewage works. I had lost the trail near the river, but soon a runner appeared. He said the trail only went to Mapleton not Mayfield, which was where l wanted to go. Under his instructions l finished up in John's back garden. John was harvesting his onions. He assured me there was a path to Mayfield near the river but very kindly let me travel via his back and front gardens to a small side road and then the A52. I regret now not taking a photo of John as my 1000 mile route runs through his front and back garden!
I decided as a result to go via the A515 to Clifton and a small side road to Lower Ellastone where l picked up the Limestone and then Staffordshire Way.
I got refreshments at Rocester, pronounced 'roaster' and headed on the Staffordshire Way through a clay pigeon shooting range to Uttoxeter. At the shooting range l said l was a little worried about getting shot but one of the marksmen said there was no need to worry as August was the closed season for shooting walkers.
A slightly unpleasant end to the day when l was charged 16 pounds to pitch my one man tent at the Caravan Club site at Uttoxeter. They also made a point of making me wait to see if there was sufficient space to give me a pitch. I am the only tent on that part of the racecourse set out for campers.

Photos
New photos coming soon

Day 43, Pomeroy to Ashbourne, Tue 18 Aug

2009-08-18T18:21:00.004+01:00

Summary
Today's distance: 25.2 km (15.7 miles)
Total distance: 1017 km (632 miles)
Distance to go: 611 km (380 miles)

Report
I was leaving the toilet facilities at the Duke of York campsite at Pomeroy this morning when the landlord called out to me to say that breakfast was ready. They don't do breakfasts at the campsite! I had asked him about the possibility of a breakfast the previous evening and when he found out l was doing a charity JOGLE he had very kindly decided to make me a breakfast. As a result Derek, his wife and l had sausage butties and coffee or tea, dining alfresco at the back of the pub.
When l asked Derek to add up my tab for breakfast and the previous evenings meal, cottage pie, and Guinness, he told me, very generously that because of my walk there was to be no charge. As a result l have donated the 20 pounds they saved me to the charity in their name.
Derek and Catheryn have only just taken over the pub and are hoping to improve the camping facilities. I am not exaggerating when l say that Derek is one of the friendliest publicans l have met. He spent his first week in ownership removing the signs saying 'no boots', 'no dogs' etc.
I left the pub about 9:30 and after crossing the road and one field l was on the path l was to follow most of the day. I didn't get lost!
Walking the Tissington trail was very pleasant and easy walking and l made good time to Parsley Hay where l found out that snacks were available. I then walked on to meet up with J, the man l met at the pub last night who was diagnosed with CLL when only 39 yrs old!
We had a great walk together and diverted from the track to lunch at the pub in Biggin. J continued to walk with me for half an hour after lunch.
I walked on for a couple of miles thinking about how far l had to walk when surprise! surprise! At the side of the road with their bicycles were Neville and Judith Hartley who had come to meet me and walk with me to the campsite, where both they and l are now camped. As a result l stopped thinking about how far l had to walk and time flew by as we made our way to the campsite. It was the best present l could have received at that time in the walk.
When l booked into the Callow Top campsite Neville arranged for me to put my tent next to his mobile home. As a result l was able to have a camp chair to sit on and a cup of tea to drink. Luxury!

When l booked into the campsite l was wearing my 'Cancerwalker' T shirt and one of the members of staff asked about my walk. Later in the evening l met him, Chris, and his colleague Ellie in the Callow Top Inn. They very kindly donated 10 pounds to my charity. It was very gratifying to get such a generous donation from such young people.
Judith, Neville and l ate out at the campsite cafe in the evening but they wouldn't let me pay for anything, so to get my revenge l have donated 15 pounds to the charities in their name. What l really appreciated most however was their kind action in traveling out all this way to make my day so enjoyable. You made my day! Thank you.

Day 42, Hayfield to Pomeroy, Mon 17 Aug

2009-08-18T05:57:00.001+01:00

Summary
Today's distance: 26.9 km (16.7 miles)
Total distance: 992 km (616 miles)
Distance to go: 636 km (395 miles)

Report
I had breakfast with Martin and Sue and then Martin and l travelled via Sainsbury's to the campsite at Hayfield. I was out on the trail again by 9:30am.
Thanks Martin and Sue for treating me just like one of the family. I've made a donation on your behalf as a token of my gratitude.
Most of the trail today followed the Pennine Bridleway and it was a very pleasant walk. The climb to South Head took a bit of effort but the extensive views made the effort worthwhile. l had only met one fell runner up to this point but on descending to Royth Clough l met up with a family out for the day. I then walked to Peak Forest where l had lunch in the pub. The meal was oh_ hum but a coffee l had was first class. I then left the Bridleway and went via road through Bole Hill, joining the Bridleway again south of a quarry.
I then made a steep descent near Wye Dale where there was a profusion of wild flowers that would have made Martin's day had he seen them. There was then a steep climb out to the A6.
I eventually reached the Duke of York about 5:45pm. It has a small campsite with limited but adequate facilities and a very friendly publican.
I put up the tent, showered and then went for an early meal. During the meal l was joined by J, the first 'blood brother' to make contact with me on the walk. He has CLL. He found me from the info posted by Ron on the ACOR website. He is hopefully going to join me for a little way tomorrow.

Day 41, Crowden to Hayfield, Sun 16 Aug

2009-08-17T09:11:00.003+01:00

Summary
Today's distance: 19.6 km (12.2 miles)
Total distance: 992 km (617 miles)
Distance to go: 636 km (395 miles)

Report
It rained in Crowden overnight but by morning it was fine and clear. I was camped in an area with other PW walkers and as a result rose early. I was on the road by 7.15 AM, my earliest yet. I didn't start on the PW as that went uphill.
I went down and followed a path via the reservoir which was mostly flat. The climb up Torside Clough was hard going but it was a cool morning which helped somewhat. In the area near Torside Castle I was passed by Mark and James who were heading to Edale so I just followed them. I noticed that I didn't cross the river, which I had crossed on my two earlier PW trips. I eventually finished up at Wainstones which I recognised from a photograph I had seen earlier.
Mark and James were obviously not following the PW, but then again neither was I. I was just wondering where to head next when 2 runners appeared. I asked them where they had come from and they said Edale so I headed in the direction from which they had come. I found the PW track and began to follow it. Up until then it had been quite bleak and lonely but the atmosphere suddenly changed as I came across more and more walkers heading up the PW.

About 1 mile before the Snake Pass I met up with Martin. He had contacted me the previous day to say he would walk with me and provide me with accommodation for the night and take me to and from my route in the manner of "A Proud Scotsman".
I accepted the offer of company on the walk and arranged to meet up with Martin somewhere between Hayfield and Crowden.
I was a bit worried about accepting an offer of accommodation from someone I had not met before but after walking with Martin for a few minutes it became obvious that he was another very generous long distance walker in the "Proud Scotsman" mould. Walking in good company made the day go very quickly and we were at Hayfield by 2.15pm. That would make me estimate the walk at about 14 miles. Please note that the mileages put up each day on the blog were determined from the maps of my proposed route and they are not my actual mileage. In the long term though I think they are probably pretty accurate.

We picked up Martin's car at Hayfield and he then took me to his home near Manchester where I met his wife Sue. I then had a very welcome hot bath. Showers are welcome but hot baths are fantastic. Matin's son, daughter and son-in-law came over and I had an excellent meal in an unbelievably welcoming atmosphere. I think the Germans use the expression gemutlich. It was fantastic to be made so welcome by complete strangers. The TGO obviously has a very good influence on people's behaviour or is it that the TGO just selects for very nice people.

I have been lucky with my CLL in that it has, so far, been comparatively benign. However it has enabled me to meet so many very nice people around the world via the Internet, many of whom are not nearly so fortunate. If I am to be honest, up to now, CLL has had a positive influence on my life. I realise others are not nearly so fortunate and hopefully research may eventually lead to a cure. Your donations will help speed things up so that our children will not have to live in fear of what I am sure is a controllable, if not a curable illness.

Undertaking this walk has given me an even deeper insight into the common decency of so many people who are happy to put themselves out to help others. Martin and Sue are a great example. The great thing about my walk has not been the scenery or the wildlife but the chance to meet so many very nice people.

Day 40, Standedge to Crowden, Sat 15 Aug

2009-08-16T00:52:00.002+01:00

Summary
Today's distance: 18.6 km (11.6 miles)
Total distance: 946 km (588 miles)
Distance to go: 683 km (424 miles)

Report
Peter got up early to take his loan car back and pick up his new car. Audrey and l breakfast at leisure. It was only when l was preparing to put my pack car in the car that l realised l had left my walking poles in the back of the loaned car. However, when we checked the loan car had been rehired and would not be accessible before 2:30pm at the earliest. We therefore set off to Huddersfield where l bought a new pair of walking poles at Argos. We then moved on to Morrison’s at Meltham where we had tea and l bought chocolate and soft drinks. I was back on the trail by 11:45am just as it started to rain. The wind picked up and l was climbing up to Black Hill in heavy rain and a strong cross winds. Visibility was down and l couldn’t see the Holme Moss transmitter mast which was only a mile away. Just before Black Hill l met a 77year old man walking the PW for the nth time. At the trig point where l now faced a strong headwind and rain l met 2 very wet young girls and was able to brighten their day by telling them about the snack van l’d seen when crossing the A635. As l decended towards Laddow Rocks where l met a lot of day walkers and a few people walking the PW. In all today l probably met as many walkers as l have seen in total so far.

Just before Laddow Rocks the track became very boggy and the track widen as people wandered off the track to avoid the boggy sections. I think this section needs upgrading to avoid further damage. PW people please take note. I was able to mention my concerns to the parks officer l met on the route. On my previous two walks above Laddow Rocks l have had some discomfort due to vertigo but this walk l had no problems. I think my walks with the Maddick family in NZ have increased my vertigo threshold. By the time I reached Laddow Rocks the rain stopped and it was fine to Crowden where l booked in at the campsite. Sadly there was no pub within 3 miles. Luckily the campsite has a tiny shop but if you remember l shipped out my cooker to reduce weight. I dined on cold sweet and sour chicken followed by cold rice pudding. Breakfast is muesli with rice, chocolate powder and chocolate. Lunch will be a Mars bar. I hope to eat properly again when l reach Hayfield. Thanks for the break from routine Audrey and Peter, and for doing my laundry.

Day 39, Mankinholes to Standedge, Fri 14 Aug

2009-08-15T03:10:00.004+01:00

Summary
Today's distance: 19.9 km (12.4 miles)
Total distance: 927 km (576 miles)
Distance to go: 701 km (436 miles)

Report
I had a muesli breakfast at the Mankinholes YHA and was on the road by 8:10. The YHA was a great hostel of the old school. As has become the norm l started off on the right track but was soon on the wrong one. The track wound around a hill above the YHA. The track seemed to have been laid out on paper without any thought to the nature of the terrain it covered. One had to jump from one faised mond of scrub to the next. Once l realsed l was on the wrong track l decided to head straight up hill over open country. Although much steeper the smoother suface made for much easier going.
I foud a cairn on another main route and shortly after found the Pennine Way using a waypoint l loaded into my GPS rx. From then on finding my way was not an issue. I saw only one person in the first 2hrs and he was driving a Land Rover. I arrived at 'The White House' pub at 10:30, hoping to find it open but found it didn't open until midday. I went on past the Aiggin Stone and at last started to meet Pennine Way (PW) walk.
I then met another group of 4 PW walkers one of whom had cycled LEJOG and was l think considering walking it. I was glad when l eventually reached Brian's Caravan Cafe on the A672 about 12:30.

I was planning on meeting up with my sister Audrey and my brother in law Peter at Standedge but they were having problems with their radiator on their brand new car! Therefore, we agreed that l would walk on to where the road going SW from Meltham meets the A672 (I think). It would mean a long day today but a nice short one, with a lie in tomorrow.
I finished walking about 5:30, met up with Audrey and Peter and we all went out to the in the evening to celebrate Audrey's actual birthday and Peter's 80th birthday, in a month's time, which l will be unable to attend as l will be still walking.

Photos
New photos added to the photo album

Day 38, Ponden House to Mankinholes, Thur 13 Aug

2009-08-14T05:28:00.002+01:00

Summary
Today's distance: 20.1 km (12.5 miles)
Total distance: 907 km (564 miles)
Distance to go: 721 km (448 miles)

Report
I had breakfast at 8:00am an then got ready to meet Neville at 9:00am at Ponden
reservoir. Just putting on my boots outside the b&b l had quite a bit of torment from
the midges. It convinced me l had made the correct decision in deciding not to camp.

Nevil and Judith arrived bang on time and Nevil and l set off on our walk on the
Pennine Way after having our photographs taken by Judith. We had a great walk
together,mostly in bright sunshine. We never lost a path but we did somtimes loose
the Pennine Way. We stopped for lunch on the moor and then popped into the little
Pennine Way tea rooms/shop near High Gate for tea and cakes. The shop was remakebly
well stocked for such an isolated spot. We arrived at the main road, next to the
Rochdale canal at about 3:00pm where Neville was picked up by Judith in their mobile
home.
I then walked west along the canal before heading SSE up the steep road to the
Mankinholes YHA. I arrived there about 4:00pm. I waited for the YHA to open and then
had a shower before heading on a short walk to the pub via the Pennine Bridleway.
Tomorrow l head for Standedge where l hope to meet up with my brother-in-law. As l
will still be walking in Cornwall when he celebrates his 80th birthday, we plan to
celebrate it early.

Day 37 Gargrave to Ponden House

2009-08-14T05:17:00.001+01:00

Summary
Today's distance: 26.1 km (16.2 miles)
Total distance: 887 km (551 miles)
Distance to go: 741 km (461 miles)

Report
I left Gargrave at about 7.45 am after a muesli breakfast and set out to walk alongside the river Ayre and the railway. I initially was on the wrong track – should have been on the one nearer the river, but was able to get onto the right track after about 1 kilometre. The grass was very long and wet, so I had to put on waterproof leggings. There were lots of nettle too that stung through my leggings. After passing a railway bridge the path improved and I made good progress to the A59 which I joined just west of Inghey Bridge. Having crossed the road I took off my pack to have a rest when a car stopped and out popped Pat, Dot and Joan (all old school friends) who had been looking for me. I saw Dot a few years ago when she visited us in New Zealand, but I hadn’t seen Pat and Joan for at least 45 years. It was great to reminisce about school etc. as we walked through Carleton over the moor to Lothersdale. It was busy with walkers where we picked up the Pennine Way. At Lothersdale we stopped to have lunch. Duncan (Pat’s husband) who was driving the car had made us packed lunches. Very nice to have some proper food in the middle of nowhere, especially as I hadn’t had to carry it! We parted company at Lothersdale and I walked on to Cowling over the moor to Ponden House.

I had hope to make contact with another old school friend, Gordon Collet, on the moor but had made the ‘mistake’ of giving my phones to Pat so that they could be recharged, completely forgetting that I had wanted to contact Gordon. Pat also very kindly took my dirty washing!

When I arrived at Ponden House I found out that the campsite was along side a river and there were a lot of midges about! I decided to go for B&B instead. Neville Hartley and his wife visited me at Ponden and I also able to meet up with Gordon. Tomorrow Neville is going to walk with me from Ponden to Makinholes.

In the evening I was guest of honour at the pub where I met up with everyone again including Glenys and Pat (not Gordon, though who had a prior engagement) a real old school reunion of Heckmondwike Grammar school. I had a most enjoyable evening and many thanks to Pat for organising everything and doing my washing and charging the phones.

Walking with other people really makes it easy – when you are chatting away you forget all about your aches and pains.

Day 36, Kettlewell to Gargrave

2009-08-11T22:36:00.000+01:00

Summary
Today's distance: 20.5 km (12.7 miles)
Distance covered: 861 Km (553 miles)
Distance to go: 767.3 Km (476.8 miles)

Report
Left Kettlewell in light drizzle on a quite road heading south running along the east side of the River Wharfe until I reach Conistone where I crossed the river and joined the B6160. This was a rather busy road and I didn’t feel particularly safe. After about 1 ½ miles I was able to turn off onto a path to Skirethorns. I got slightly lost here, mistaking a permanent caravan park for the camp site. Finally got it sorted out and headed on to Threshfield Moor. The weather had improved by now though remained overcast. What initially started as a good 4 wheel track disappeared into a featureless heather landscape with no discernable path. I had to navigate using GPS to my turning point at Lane Head where the track was visible again. I headed south eventually joining a minor road to Hetton, where I had a snack in the pub. I then followed a slightly busier road to Gargrave, which needed care walking around the bends

At Gargrave I headed to the camp site to book in. I had to go to the co-op to get money from a machine to pay the campsite. I wanted to phone an old school friend (Derek) who lives fairly near here – too noisy with traffic outside so phoned inside the co-op while I did my shopping. I left a message on his answer phone. When I went to the till to pay, who should be there but Derek, though not as a result of the phone call! He had been to the campsite looking for me and they had directed him to the co-op. He shouted me a meal in the pub and we had a great time catching up on our old school days.

He also gave me another old school friends’ number (Pat) who I contacted and hopefully she and 3 other friends from school will join me for part of the walk tomorrow.

Day 35 Newbiggin to Kettlewell (not Hawkswick)

2009-08-11T01:39:00.001+01:00

Summary
Today's distance: ~23.6 Km (14.7 miles)
Distance covered: 840.5 Km (522.3 miles)
Distance to go: 787.8 9 Km (489.5 miles)

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I had a choice of two routes this morning – one to climb up behind Buckden Pike on tracks or to follow the road through Kidstones, Cray, Buckden, Starbotton and then on to Kettlewell. It was drizzling when I packed up the tent so I decided to take the lower route. The weather deteriorated and I had a hard climb against a strong head wind going over the pass to Buckden. The hills around were all shrouded in low cloud, so if I had taken the higher route I would have had no views and it would probably been windier. The road wasn’t too busy, but a bit narrow at times. Somedays when walking in the Yorkshire Dales you get better views from the road looking up, than you do from on the hills looking down!

At Starbotton I left the road to join the Dales Way to Kettlewell. At the pub where I had breakfast, the waitress had warned me that it would be busy in Kettlewell. It was – I had difficulty in finding the camp site, so many people, all tourists who had no idea where the campsite was, the locals had gone into hiding! It was the annual scarecrow festival. There are masses of scarecrows, very well constructed, a great credit to the local community. Well worth a visit. From the phone box where I’m ‘reporting’ I can see about 6. On top of the booth there is a drunken scarecrow, complete with bottle.

The campsite is small and quiet with very nice views.

Day 34 Reeth to Newbiggen, (Sun 9 Aug)

2009-08-10T08:28:00.005+01:00

Summary
Today's distance: 17.1 km (10.6 miles)
Distance covered: 816.9 km (507.6 miles)
Distance to go: 811.4 km (504.2 miles)

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I walked from Reeth to Grinton on a path and then had a long climb on a quiet road to 463 metres before the road started to descend to Castle Bolton. On the way down I met two cyclists, Dave and John, heading to Ketterwell where I hope to be tomorrow. We had a good chat. One had lost a good friend in France recently, due to chronic leukaemia. They both came from Ilkley and knew of Heckmondwike (where I originally came from) and the Boot Co-op. Heckmondwikes’ other claim to fame is that it the place where Madonna came to get felt.

There are a lot of dead rabbits on this route – I don’t know if the authorities are poisoning them again. One looked to be blind.

I found a very nice tea room in the castle, where they serve spice cake and Wensleydale cheese (Wallace would have been pleased!).

I then had a very pleasant walk across fields in the Ure Valley to the Aysgarth Falls and headed south to Thoralby and the camp site at Newbiggin. I arrived about 3pm and did my washing etc. I hadn’t any change for the washing machines, so asked a couple in a caravan if they could change 5 pounds for me. We got chatting - I was telling them what I was doing and not only did they give me the change but wouldn’t take anything for it – said to give the money to the charity. Thank you, Debbie and Colin.

I’ve got a lot of midge bites again, mainly on my face and scalp. The midges tend to concentrate their attack when you are making or striking camp.

I had a very nice meal (fish pie and vegetables, followed by cheese cake) in the pub right next door to the campsite, so no distance to walk. That was great! I met Anne and Malcome Renshaw in the pub – they live locally and are long distance walkers. They’ve done the TGO Great Outdoor Challenge (the walk across Scotland) a number of times and have a few friend who have done JOGLE walk. They gave me 10 pounds for the charity for which very many thanks. The conversation I had with them was the perfect end to a good day.

To-morrow I won’t be setting off early as I have booked breakfast at the pub which doesn’t open until 9am

Day 33 Barnard Castle to Reeth

2009-08-08T23:25:00.001+01:00

Summary
Today's distance: 25.8 km (16 Miles)
Distance covered: 799.8km (497.0 Miles)
Distance to go: 828.5km (514.8 Miles)

Report
Cold Chinese takeaway is not the most appetising of breakfasts!. I struggled through half, then set off to the bridge that would take me to Barnard Castle. I met someone walking her dog and she told me of the Castle Café which does cooked breakfasts all day and are open from 7 am. She also let me leave my backpack in her garden while I went off to get more breakfast.

I walked on roads to Boldron and then headed south and crossed the A66 into Kilmond Wood. I then took a path to a minor road, crossed the Greta River and headed towards ‘The Stang Forest’, still keeping to the road as some of the farm tracks are hard to find. At a height of 291 metres a path crossed the road, which I took heading south. I thought that this would be OK as I could see a small wood in the distance to give me my bearings. The path wasn’t particular clear but I eventually reached Garnthwaite farm. Finding the path from the farm to the Stang forest was tricky. My map showed the path on the east side of the farm, but it was on the west. I met a couple of cyclists who said the track through the forest was quite easy to follow – and it was quite visible. However on leaving the forest following the track was more tricky. I followed it to the 416 m level where the track split. The one going east looked well defined but not the SE one which I wanted. After much battling over burnt heather and boggy ground I eventually found the track I was looking for. It was almost non existent, so I decided to follow 4 wheel drive tracks and small roads. This added another 2 kilometres to the days walk but really simplified the navigation. I had excellent weather and great views on top of the moor. You descend into Reeth from old mine workings. I met Jeff and Ali there – we had a good chat and they very kindly gave me 2 pounds for the charities.

I arrived at the camp site about 5.30 pm, (9 ½ hours walking today), tired but not as exhausted as I was yesterday. (Forgot to mention yesterday that I broke the arm on my prescription specs!). I have pitched my tent at the Orchard Caravan Park and the owner Paul very generously waived his fee for my pitch which I will donate to the charity. It is a very busy campsite, a lot of people doing the Coast to Coast walk. There are several tents even smaller than mine.

I had a shower and then had a meal at the Black Bull Inn, which was good, but they were very busy and after waiting 20 minutes for my pudding I gave up and went to the Buck Inn for a second guinness. It was much quieter and more relaxing. (A group was tuning up at the Black Bull, obviously the night’s entertainment).

Day 32 Wolsingham to Barnard Castle

2009-08-07T23:54:00.000+01:00

It’s been a hard day! After breakfast I decided to get rid of a few things to reduce the weight of the pack. Managed to shed about 1 kilo. I’ve lost about 3+ kilos so hopefully this will bring my pack to body ratio back into line.

Leaving Wolsingham I managed to set off going east rather than south. For some reason (though marked red on the map) I took the A689, rather than the ‘yellow’ minor road. After about 15 minutes I realised that there were no hills and I was heading into the sun. So I back tracked and found the right road to Chatterley. It was hilly. I walked along roads south to Doctor’s Gate over Hamsterly Common where I had a choice of two routes through Hamsterly Forest. I took what looked the most worn but it was hard going, up and down before climbing out near a village called Woodland. I then headed south across farmland – some of the tracks easy to find, some not. A lot of fields with bulls, skittish cows and calves.

I arrived at Barnard Castle and followed a cycle route to cross the river Tees only to find the bridge closed due to repairs. I then had to back track again and follow the road to find another bridge, which was about ½ k away. However my classic mistake of the day was that there are two camp sites to the west of Barnard Castle and I went to the wrong one first! (I had booked into the caravan and camping club members one and they give good rate to backpackers).

I had walked for about 9 ½ hours and had nothing to eat since breakfast as my chocolate had completely melted and was not eatable. (I had bought a soft drink in Woodland). By the time I had set up camp, had a shower and done my washing it was 9pm, too late to walk the 2 k into Barnard Castle to find a pub for a meal. Fortunately, there was a Chinese takeaway that delivered to the camp site. I ordered a little too much so the leftovers will be breakfast tomorrow. When I leave Barnard Castle early tomorrow I may not find anything open it being Saturday.

Day 31 Rowland's Gill to Wolsingham 6th Aug

2009-08-06T21:51:00.002+01:00

From Rowland's Gill I walked along a cycle track which used to be a coal mine railway and followed it all the way to Consett. I met Malcome Walker on the way and we had a good chat. I think that he may consider doing Jogle one day. In Consett I met two elderly ladies who suggested that the library would be the best place to get information about accommodation in Wolsingham. The service was excellent, better than any information centre I've been to in Britain and thanks to them I found accommodation at the Black Bull pub.

I had lunch in Consett and carried on folowing the disused mine railway track now called 'the Waskerley Way'. About 3 kilometres before Waskerley I took a left turn to Oxen Law and then to Salter's gate. From Salter's Gate I had a very pleasant walk across Wolsingham Park Moor.

On entering Wolsingham I asked some one (Jim Robson) who was cutting logs in his garden about the Black Bull Pub and he said that he was about to go down there and would give me a lift. I said that I had to walk so he said he would meet me in the pub and I buy me a drink. I met Jim there along with a friend of his, Jackie Brougham (now living in Darwin, Australia but visiting family here) and we had a good evening. They offered me a drink but I asked for a donation instead. They gave me a generous 10 pounds, which was great. Many thanks.

At the pub I was interviewed by a reporter from the local paper and she took my photograph! Not sure if anything will be published, though.

The Black Bull Pub had no qualms about giving me breakfast at 7.30 am tomorrow. I've been in some places where 8.30 am is the earliest time for breakfast.

Day 30 At Rowland's Gill 5th August 2009

2009-08-06T21:31:00.002+01:00

Got up early and got a bus to the metro centre for breakfast and then a bus back to the camp site from where I set off to see 'The Angel of the North'. I walked along the road side (probably the most dangerous stretch of road I've been on so far with fast traffic and no room to manoeuvre). When I could see the Angel in the distance I took a photograph and then my camera packed up! At the woods near the statue I met Kelly who works for the Gateshead council. She was doing a forest survey and she kindly took some photos of me on her cell phone and will try and send me copies via e-mail (it was new phone). Without these photographs I will have no record of my 25k kilometre journey to the Angel of the North - something I've wanted to see for a long time. Kelly showed me a cycle route which I took back to the camp site with very little traffic until near the end. The walk to and from the Angel took about 7 hours.

Back at the camp site I took a bus to the metro centre and bought a new camera, a new cell phone and my supper.

Day 29 Well House Farm to Rowland's Gill

2009-08-05T09:23:00.002+01:00

Raining when I got up - eased to a drizzle when I was packing up the tent but then rained steadily for the next two hours. I walked on quiet roads and bridal paths to Ovingham. On the way near Old Nafferton I finished up walking through someones garden in error. I met a neighbor who realized that I was lost. She had a good knowledge of the local bridal paths so was able to direct me (a horse rider who also volunteers at the local RDA). I couldn't find anywhere to eat in Ovingham so walked along the south bank of the rive Tyne to Wylam. Along the way I met a great chap, Albert - a retired joiner who has a fantastic house near the river and who does up old motor cycles (no Norton's though!).

I then headed SE across country, first to Greenside and then Barlow on quiet roads. Finding the farm track from Barlow to Thornly Bank proved difficult. I wandered around a farm but found no one to ask directions. I headed off to a road and found someone who gave me directions on to a path (which wasn't the one I was trying to find!). Eventually I walked 3 sides around a wheat field to look for an exit. I could see the road through a hawthorne hedge so tossed my pack over the hedge and carried on walking looking for a gate to get out of the field - which I eventually did and then went back along the road to retrieve my pack. I made rapid progress to some dog kennels when I realized that I had lost my new hat (13 pounds from M & S) which I had been using as as a pad for my shoulder. So I left my pack on the side of the road and went back about 1 1/2 miles to find it. The rest of the walk to Rowlands's Hill was uneventful.

I have pitched my tent at the camp site, though they only have a caravan symbol now. It is possible next year that they may not have tents, just caravans.

One of my phones doesn't work anymore - maybe when I tossed the pack over the hedge something jarred?? Tomorrow I do want to to get to see 'the Angel of the North' (a.k.a. Rusty Rita) so will do so after finding somewhere to have breakfast and then hopefully look for somewhere to replace the phone. There is quite a big shopping complex nearby.

Day 28, 3 Aug, Ray Fell to Well House Farm

2009-08-03T22:13:00.002+01:00

I didn’t feel like a cold breakfast this morning. I woke about 6am and was off by 7 am. I headed south following bridle paths on the edge of and through forests. In parts it was very overgrown and hard going. When I reached Pocklington I could have continued along the bridle path but decided to take the road heading E, then SE and then SW before joining the track again. This track is Route 10 for mountain bikes. I followed the track to a war memorial at a cross roads and then took another bridle path, St. Oswald’s Way, to a farm called ‘Click’em in’ where I took the road to Great Whittington. Following the path from here to Halton Shields was tricky due to new housing but I eventually got to the camp site at Well House Farm. Since the ‘medium’ breakfast the day before I had survived on nuts and chocolate. I made up for it in the Robin Hood Pub. I had walked for about 8 ½ hours and it was great to have a shower especially after the wild camp.

To morrow I am still heading to Rowland’s Gill but will modify the route to make it more direct rather than the scenic route via the River Tyne.

Day 27 Byrness to Ray Fell

2009-08-03T22:13:00.001+01:00

I left the Youth Hostel at 8am and started walking down the A68. The warden had warned me that it would be busy with motor bikes, which it was, but there were only a few heavy trucks. I stopped at a transport like café and had a ‘medium’ size breakfast.

I then walked to the junction of the A68 and A696 which I joined and followed as far as Otterburn. The chap in the shop there told me of a bridle path which starts just past the mill south of Otterburn and follows the River Rede. I asked how I could cross the river and he said there were stepping stones. It may have been the recent rain but I saw no place to cross! Therefore I carried on until I came to a bridge that took me to East Woodburn. It was getting late by this time and I needed water and to find a place to camp. I stopped at a couple of farms and a cottage but could not find anyone about. As the path crossed the road round here I took it to the next cottage that I could see and was told in no uncertain terms that I shouldn’t be on the road, it was private. (there were no signs where the path crossed the road). I did get some water and left the road by the shortest route which was convenient for me and set up camp in a small forest. I had been walking for about 11 ½ hours and was too tired to find someone to ask permission. As I was in the forest I didn’t like to use my stove so went straight to bed.

Day 26 Jedburg to Byrness (route change)

2009-08-01T23:19:00.001+01:00

It was raining first thing but eased while I was packing the tent. It had started raining again by the time I set off and became quite heavy as I climbed out of Jedburg and as a result I missed my turnoff which put an extra kilometre on to my walk.

I was walking along minor roads (the traffic quite heavy initially) until I reached the turn off to Dere Street by which time the weather had cleared though windy. On Dere Street I had a clear view all the way to the English border where I joined the Pennine Way. Here I met 3 walkers who had come from Byrness and we had a good chat. When telling them of my route they said that it would not be possible as the red flags were up on the firing range which I had planned to cross. I had been aware of explosions while I was on Dere Street but hadn’t twigged it had to do with the firing range!

As a result I had to divert to Byrness via the Pennine Way and was able to book into the Youth Hostel there. Nice hostel and I was able to have a meal there. The food was not expensive.

The recent rain has made the Peninne Way much boggier than I remembered from my previous walks – in fact it was quite arduous.

Tomorrow it looks as if I will have to walk 10 – 16 miles along main roads as I am no longer on my planned route. I don’t have any maps for the Pennine Way and I think it could take another day if I went on it. Not too sure where I will spend the night.

Day 25 Hareshawhead to Jedburg

2009-07-31T23:31:00.002+01:00

APS (a proud Scotsman) was waiting for me by the time I got to the campsite gates at 7.30am which were still locked! I was originally planning to wild camp last night but having met APS deviated to the campsite.

I was dropped off where APS picked me up yesterday and initially walked on a farm track through Hawkesnest reaching the main road at Glendearg. I then headed south towards the B6374 which I joined for about a mile in the direction of Melrose. I followed this route for about a mile before heading south through Darnick and joined the B6359 to Bowdenmoor. This was a steepish climb. When I reached the A699 I turned left and after a kilometre I decided to follow an old drove road heading SSE. Big mistake! This was the most overgrown path I’ve walked but at least it was dry apart from the river crossing. I eventually reached a minor which I crossed and the track improved somewhat heading in a SE direction past a farm at Whinfield. I then headed SE until I met the A68 which I followed for about a kilometre before turning up to the old Roman road Deer Street. This was a very pleasant walk – also called St.Cuthbert’s Way and took me within 2 miles of the campsite. The last two miles seemed very long – I had been walking for 9 hours.

Day 24 Newtongrange to Hareshawhead

2009-07-30T22:01:00.001+01:00

I left the campsite just before 8am and had breakfast in Lothianbridge. I then walked as far as Newtongrange which has a war memorial in a very nice park where I sat on a park bench and aired my feet. Shortly after leaving the area I was approached by a gentleman with an envelope bearing my name. He said that he knew who I was from the website and the envelope enclosed a very generous 20 pounds for the charity to be given in the name of ‘a proud Scotsman’. He is also a walker and has been to all the extremities of the British Isles.

I met up with him again at a pie cart on the A7 and he said that he would meet up with me again further on. We met about 2 miles out of Stow and then he said that he would drive into Stow and then walk back to meet me and we would then walk together into Stow, which we did. He then walked back to Stow to pick up his car and I carried on towards Melrose. I had just got the Hareshawhead wood plantations when he found me again and we drove to the camp site at Lauder. The first bit of the route from Gore Bridge was near the A7 but the latter half was on a quiet rural road parallel to the A7. Pastoral - quite a few encouraging baas from sheep.

Tomorrow he is picking me up from the camp site and dropping me off at the Hareshawhead plantations so I can start walking again.

On commenting on all that he was doing for me he said that this was his way of thanking all the people who had helped him on his walks. As I am a ‘people’ person
This has been a great day.

Day 23 Edinburgh to Newtongrange

2009-07-30T21:57:00.000+01:00

Last night coming back on the bus from my day in Edinburgh I saw, I thought I saw a building in the Firth of Forth that wasn’t there in the morning. It was one of those enormous cruise ships, moored near the Forth Rail Bridge! I also did my washing. Put 3 pounds in the machine – nothing happened, tried again with another 3 pounds – nothing happened Had to bite the bullet and disturb the staff. This is a common fault. You have to slam the lid to get it going!

It rained during the night but was in the morning. I left about 8.15 in bright sunshine so I had no excuse when I managed to set off in the wrong direction! I realised my mistake after one kilometre. It didn’t matter however, as I finished up on cycle route 1km into Edinburgh which took me southwest on a very quiet disused railway track. I turned off towards Haymarket Railway station then crossed another park area where I sat on a park bench to air my feet. It was a good route if you want to bypass Edinburgh but doesn’t give you an idea of the character of the city.

As I went south the area gradually became more rural. I took what I thought was a short cut on another old railway track approaching the campsite at Lothianbridge, across farmland. It was a bit boggy and meandered somewhat. I think it would have better to have taken the main road via Tescos.

Lothianbridge campsite is situated under the old viaduct. I camped under one of the arches in case it rained (it didn’t) and in the morning noticed a sign saying ‘Danger. Falling Masonary’.

Tue 28 July, Rest Day

2009-07-29T05:24:00.000+01:00

Hi All,

Strictly this is not a JOGLE day. I am having the day off in Edinburgh and catching up with the blog and shopping etc.

First may I thank all those of you who have made donations. It does provide me with a great boost to my morale. The first 5 miles aren't ususally too bad on any one day. It's the last 5 miles that take it out of you, whether it's 15 or 20 miles in total. Knowing my walking is helping raise money for research into a cure for CLL does help to keep me going.

Thanks Chris (Jones) for the photo of my midge bitten legs. The bites look as angry as they felt on your photo. My photo was a bit washed out.

Today I've posted back to my sister 650 grams of 'things not needed on voyage', but sadly I think may be buying more new stuff than I posted back! Shampoo, AA batteries etc. The long distance walking fraternity will be familiar with the 'post it back' procedure.

I head south tomorrow, walking through central Edinburgh which should be interesting. Whilst I don't like traffic noise, I find urban areas are not uninteresting places to walk. The noise walking across the Forth road bridge was horrendous. Whilst it would be nice to wear ear plugs, odd bits of slow traffic can creep up on you from behind even in the walking lane. You need your hearing. The walking lane also used by maintenance vehicles and lots of bicycles.

Day 21, Mon 27 July, Calais Muir Wood to Edinburgh

2009-07-28T02:32:00.000+01:00

Left the campsite at Duloch Hamlet after a cooked breakfast (provided by the site owners) by 8.30am. Although there were midges about, I didn’t get bitten!

The route, apart from the first 100 metres was either on a cycle way or pavement.

There was a strong head wind as I crossed the Forth Road Bridge and I had a good view of the Forth Rail Bridge. I don’t particularly like heights so was pleased when I was across! I made my way inland towards Edinburg and had lunch at a pub on the banks of the Almond River. I followed the river to the Firth of Forth, very pleasant, then along Marine Parade to the campsite. The tide was low and several people were walking on the causeway to Cramond Island. When I went out for my evening meal the tide had come in again. It had been overcast all day but there was a beautiful sunset that night.

I picked up my new set of maps to get me as far as Wolverhampton (my sister sent then to me at the campsite).

Tomorrow I’m having the day in Edinburg, to catch up on my shopping, recharge phones etc. and hopefully find an internet café.

Day 20, Sun 27 July, Kinross to Calais Muir Wood

2009-07-27T05:57:00.001+01:00

It was pouring with rain again when I woke, so I stayed in my tent hoping it would ease but at 8.30 am decided to pack up. I put the tent in the bottom section of my pack which was a lot heavier being so wet. About a kilometre past Kinross the rain eased, but it started again at Keltybridge and eased again by the time I got to Kingseat. At least I didn’t need sun tan lotion or midge repellent!

South of Kingseat the navigation got a bit tricky. A lot of new housing in areas where my maps showed tracks. (quite expensive houses - 434,000 pounds!).

One place near Halbeath I stopped to take photographs of some murals on the old leisure centre (a new one has just been built). I was looking at the map and a chap stopped to ask if he could help. Just the day before he said that he had donated to leukaemia research! South from here the road got more like a farm track and I came across an area which looked as if it was part of a scrap yard, cars, bits of washing machines etc. A large black dog leapt out at me barking ferociously. It lunged at me several times but was tied round its waist by a rope. I was about a metre away form its jaws. Then I heard a couple of people shouting at me and they said that I couldn’t go on as the route was blocked off. After I showed them my map which indicated a navigable path they admitted that I could go on, but would have to climb a fence. (There is now an alternative route via the new leisure centre which I think would be the better option). The track petered out at the fence, which was easy enough to climb over with the pack off.

I didn’t change my rote to look for a B&B so pitched my tent at Duloch Hamlet. The camp site here is more of a wild camp, a cold water tap, no showers, a composting toilet which seemed to be very effective, it didn’t smell. The owners provide wood for you to build a camp fire. (This as the type of camping I did with my brother Gordon all those years ago, except we had to look for our own wood!).

I had a good evening meal at the Queen Hotel in Inverkeithing (steak and salad followed with a pavlova with grapes, strawberries, blueberries, plums, mangoes).

My tent has dried off.

Day 19, Sat 29 July, Perth to Kinross

2009-07-26T01:14:00.000+01:00

Left the camp site about 7.30am and got MacDonalds by 8am. Had a cooked breakfast followed by pancakes!

The walk was mainly on the road and the weather warm and sunny. There was a private track across a farm (Mains Condi), where I had my only conversation of the ‘walking’ part of the day. (I filled up with water and was allowed to use the track.). The route goes down into Pathstruie and then up into a forest -- Hard work.

I got the campsite at about 4.15 pm and collapsed into the chair in the office!

I had about a 20 minute walk to find somewhere for my evening meal and arrived at ‘The Green’ at about 8pm. ‘Oh, you’re a bit late’ was the response but seeing that there was only one they fitted me in! Late? At 8 pm on a Saturday night? However, I did have a very nice meal (chicken wrapped in parma ham with a mustard sauce followed by a cheese board).

I went looking for somewhere for breakfast for the next morning and somehow got the wrong route back to the campsite which put a further 20 mins on to my day. Feel quite exhausted so may change my route tomorrow to avoid my having to wild camp and find a B&B.

Photo Update 2

2009-07-25T01:57:00.004+01:00

Old hut I stayed at when crossing the Minigaig

Fountain in Dunkeld Square

Entering perth from the south

Campsite in Perth

Day 18, Fri 24 July, Inver Dunkeld to Perth

2009-07-25T01:50:00.000+01:00

For those of you who have done this type of walking will know that there are good days and bad days. This day started out as a bad day! On packing up my tent I was attacked by midges. The rain started by the time I had walked the extra mile back to Dunkeld. So I took off my pack to put on wet weather gear, and doing the pack up again the main buckle snapped. I walked for about 2 miles, passed the railway station when I realised I no longer had my Akubra bush hat. I don’t know where I lost it. The rain started to increase. I followed the cycle route 77 to the Pass of Birnam. I then took a short cut along what was the old A9 – it is now a deeply rutted 4 wheel drive track. The ruts were a foot deep filled with water. The middle bit was grass 18 inches high hiding pot holes. A mile of it was particularly difficult. However things did start to improve and I was able to get a sandwich and coffee to go at the only shop in Bankfoot. I then headed south in gradually increasing rain which eventually became torrential and it hailed! The road flooded and passing cars threw up copious amounts spray. One couple stopped their car and offered me a lift, but I felt I had to carry on walking. (Actually the rain is not as bad as walking through midges). I eventually came to Pitcairngreen, a small village with a pub offering lunch, but I decided to walk on to Almondbank a slightly larger place, only to find no pub, no tea room! (It did have a shop).

I arrived at New House Farm, a new camp site situated to the west side of Perth next to the Noah’s Ark Golf Driving Range (where you check in for the camp site) by 2.30pm. It is a new camp site, only been open for 8 weeks with great ‘oldie’ friendly showers.

After pitching my tent I went to scout out my route for the following day. I decided to veer from my original route (as I found todays hard going) so I am now going to head for the services on the M90 at Boxden where there is a MacDonalds for Breakfast. (I had my evening meal there too). While I was walking around the Boxden services I met Sandy walking his deer hound. Sandy is a member of the Perth Hill Walking Club and he gave me some useful information for my route to-morrow.

When I got back to the camp site I met the owner who was doing his rounds. We had a pleasant chat and he asked me how I found out about the site, being so new. Well it when I was back in NZ using the net. I gave him my blog web site and a little later he returned with a very generous 20 pound donation for the charities.

In spite of finding the day quite tough I didn’t feel depressed – exercise must be good for the brain!